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I put a Petronix ignition coupled with a "Flamethrower" coil. Did not change plug gaps. Car runs like a charm.

Can you specify which Petronix ignition you used? And the coil? Are they off-the-shelf items available at Summit Racing?

Did you have to replace the distributor also?

Here's a 6V PerTronix system at Summit:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PNX-1561P6&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Glad to finaly hear some imput on the pertronix kits from packard guys. i want to use them in my "stock" drivers. the "flying dragon" however is getting a mallory uni-lite ignition system.

Re: Pertronix

After the engine rebuild of my engine in 2004 I ordered and installed the Pertronix Igniter unit specified for positive ground 12V from (I believe) Summit Racing. If memory serves, the negative ground unit is #1182 and the positive ground one is #1183 but I cannot swear to this now. It was satisfactory and easily installed. I had one fail, not because of the unit but because of an old ignition system fuze that I'd noticed but somehow forgot to replace when rewiring the fuze box (old age malfunction). In an emergency, side of the road, change back to points (contact breaker) and condenser on the '55s you must remember to disconnect the extra coil to ground (earth) wire that is included with the positive ground Pertronix unit.

I used both the OEM and Flamethrower coils during the time that I was running the Pertronix unit and I, too, never re-gapped the spark plugs. The car ran well with both but seemed to be just a litle more responsive and have a little more "oomph" with the Flamethrower coil.

My car is a daily driver and I have, since, installed a Jacobs, multi-spark ignition system in an attempt to improve around-town fuel efficiency whilst running A/C continuously (Florida, you know), again - for the purists - without altering anything that cannot be easily removed. This was done by re-installing a new contact breaker (points) and condenser and using a 12V+ to 12V- relay to feed a negative signal to the Jacobs control box. Although the Pertonix unit will work with the Jacobs system, the point/condenser setup gives it a much more defined and crisp switching (ignition) signal than the Hall-effect Pertronix unit.

Though I have no experience with the Mallory or other ignition systems in this application, my "shade-tree" experience indicates that it should work with any aftermarket ignition system, multi-spark or otherwise. The + to - signal relay would, of course, not be necessary in '56 year model cars.

The increased spark range and efficiency at lower rpm has vastly improved responsiveness and fuel economy (extra 1 to 2 mpg) in the type of driving that I do the most (around Orlando metro area in heavy traffic), improving performance without any alterations that cannot be undone by removing the Jacobs control box, coil and the relay and reconnecting the OEM coil.

Loyd,

Any pictures of what that looks like under the hood?

"Any pictures of what that looks like under the hood?"

I had taken some to upload to this website shortly before my previous desktop computer went south on me. Lost 'em but will, probably tomorrow, attempt taking some more and post.

I am slightly "photography challenged" so don't expect too much.

NO CONTROL MODULE!!!!!

empius.com/2009_catalog/empi2009_pg111.html

About $40 ????? Wonder if same is available for an 8ight ??


From VI discussion:
"Filco had a similar one in the 70's I had on my 8 cyl Maverick... Think this could be made to work with 4 xtra magnets.. Black disk holds magnets an installs under rotor..rotats above pick up and triggers it..4 magnets placed 90 degrees apart. add 4 more between and they would be 45 degree apart. turning 1/2 speed to crank, fire 90 degree V8..!!!!!! They offer xtra mag disk on Empi web. might have to make a larger disk for the V8??? Micarta Material from Radio Shack Would Make it ( DISK)"

On the subject of increasing spark plug gap with electronic ignition.

There are certain things to watch out for. Electronic ignition alone will not cover it.

You need to be aware that if you increase spark gaps you increase the chance that sparks will jump and arc where you don't want them to.

Distributor cap. Look inside the distributor cap of an electronic ignition car. Usually you will see ridges or fences. These are to help isolate the sparks. Your cap is smooth inside.

If you can find a modern cap that will fit your distributor it would be a good addition.

Another thing is the plug wires. New wires have thicker insulation usually made of silicone rubber. You may get away with your old wires but only if they are carefully isolated on insulated standoffs and do not come near anything metal. Even then you may get a cross fire or lose sparks in damp weather.

Whether you want the new fat plug wires is the question.

Your old coil can be a problem too. If the 12 volt connections are too close to the coil wire sparks can jump across. I have seen this on old cars with standard ignitions if the plug wires were shot.

So for maximum efficiency you need a new cap, wires, and coil. Then you can open up the gaps to the same as a modern car.

Failing that, I wouldn't open up the gaps more than .005. And if you really want to go uptown, buy a set of Bosch Platinum plugs. They should give you an improvement all by themselves and they last 50000 miles to boot.

This all applies to wider plug gaps ONLY. If you do not widen the plug gaps you don't need to worry. The reason is that the spark will take the path of least resistance.

In other words, if you do not increase the plug gap you do not increase the chance of sparks going the wrong way no matter how "Hot" your ignition.

Glad to hear the Jacobs increased your fuel mileage. I had one I tried on two different engines and neither showed any increase in mileage.

My experience has been, on stock engines, the OEM system, well maintained, works as it should. Aftermarket ignitions have not shown any better performance or economy over a perfect stock system. The advantage to the Pertronix is it is essentially maintenance free. However, the cap, rotor, plugs and wires will still need regular replacement. As mentioned above, a hotter spark will leak through where the standard spark won't.

thnx, jack vines

Just did a search and ran across this old thread.

Has anyone used an electric ignition on a '51-'54 system?