Re: Turn signal installation 37 115 Coupe
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Home away from home
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Good Morning...This is just a guess based on experience...you might have a bad ground. Sometimes the selected ground point has paint on it and the six volt power just won't go through the paint...the other thought is a loose new connection...where a connector was not squished against the wire with enough force. Good luck...Ernie in Arizona
Posted on: Today 11:05
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Caretaker of the 1949-288 Deluxe Touring Sedan
'Miss Prudence' and the 1931 Model A Ford Tudor 'Miss Princess' ![]() |
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Re: Turn signal installation 37 115 Coupe
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Just popping in
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Thanks, I'll have to start checking all my connections.
Posted on: Today 11:25
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Re: Turn signal installation 37 115 Coupe
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Forum Ambassador
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Are you using external pod lights on the fender or under the headlight assys such as John did on his 37 or are you trying to use the existing parking light bulbs inside the headlight bucket as BigKev did on his 37? When you say "the only thing that gets them to come on is when I turn headlights on" do you mean there is no power to the turn signals unless the headlights are on or something else. Where is power source coming from?
What type of unit are you trying to install -- something of recent mfg made to look old or something period correct found on ebay and how many wires go to into the control unit. Is the flasher inside the control unit or external and what type is it. Some newer flashers are polarity sensitive and only work some of the bulbs and most flashers will not work with LED bulbs (most also polarity sensitive) if you have any of those.
Posted on: Today 12:28
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Howard
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Re: Turn signal installation 37 115 Coupe
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Webmaster
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The power feed for the "turnsignals" to the control pod should be powered from ignition on, not the headlight swtich.
Part of the headlight swtich has constant power, the the other half part on has power when the swtich in different positions. Neither is suitable for the turn signals. As you don't want that energized all time, nor do you only want turn signals when the headlights are on. The rear turnsignals are also the rear brake lights and are controlled in conjunction with the brake light swtich. The stock circuit for the brake light is a just single wire, that feeds booth sides. So they have to be seperated. Which means, at a minimum a second wire needs to be run to the rear. The turn signal pod accepts a wire from the brake light swtich, and then has two wires out to the brake lights, Right and Left. Make sure the relay you are using is grounded, and also it's a 6V one. The regular turn signal relays need enough resistance on the load side to "blink", this is why folks have issues with LED bulbs. They do make solid state relays that are compatible with LEDs. Poor grounds can create a multitude of electrical gremlins. I knew one person who had a bad engine ground strap that failed, when they went to start their car, the high load from the starter had to ground somewhere. Which in his case was up the oil pressure tube into the dash gauge. Which then promptly destroyed/melted his oil pressure gauge.
Posted on: Today 21:09
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-BigKev
1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan -> Registry | Project Blog 1937 Packard 115-C Convertible Coupe -> Registry | Project Blog |
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