Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Call them, hopefully they will make it right!

Here is another option that may be easier to source locally for you:

SEYMOUR® High Temp Cast Blast Restoration Paint, 12 oz

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Correct paint is on the way! I should be able to get my Cavalier back together next week. 🤞🤞🤞

Funny thing is Eastwood's slogan on the can is Do the Job Right! (It was a dealer, not Eastwood, that messed up.) Oh well, stuff happens. A very first world problem.

Manifolds are back on and I'm happy with the end result.








This adapter was a life saver!!!





I still have my engine miss, so I did a compression test. I knew there would be a valve job in the Cavalier's future, and the future is here.

I'd check the valve clearance before plunging into a valve job. A valve that lacks enough clearance will not seat fully. Correcting the clearance may correct the problem.

The manifolds look great and interesting tool. I’ve taken these off and put them back on many times and never used such a tool but am definitely going to get one!

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If it’s a random miss, it sounds more electrical than valves but if you decide to do them, just try lapping rather than grinding. With hydraulic lifers, once you grind the valves and seats, it’s a lot of work to obtain the proper adjustment.

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Good point! I don't believe this is the issue as clearance were set a couple or years ago when I had the engine apart. "If" clearance is the issue and it's been lost over a couple of thousand miles then I still have issues even if the clearance is corrected.

What I "think" the problem is, is that when I bought the Cavalier a few years ago (not running), and discovered it had a tapping sound when I did get it running I tore it apart and did several things to cure the tapping sound, which I did. I replaced valve guides and some valves, but just lapped them, which was fine for a while. Some of the seats were a little thin, but I wasn't sure what I was going to do with the Cavalier at that point so didn't invest in a full valve job, which is probably what it needs.

I'm going to do a leak down test today and see what all I can figure out. Next week I'll run it over to my engine builder and I'm pretty sure he can use his borescope and be able to see exactly what's going on with the valves.

I put a new set of rings in it when I had it apart and there's nothing to indicate they are leaking, which is good news. Plugs are nice and clean, no crankcase pressure, and not burning oil.

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I like the looks of the manifolds and went back and forth over painting the intake as well, but at this point glad I didn't as the intake wasn't rusty at all. I want the manifolds to look natural, but without the rust, which I get is what naturally happens to the exhaust manifold. I'm just a little bipolar! LOL

I bought just the size I needed off Amazon. $12.99

Given your background, you will already know that using one of these with on a torque wrench will change your effective torque depending on how it is attached to the torque wrench. (90 degrees makes no difference, 180 degrees requires compensation.) Found this handy online calculator.

I'm pretty sure my issue is going to be bad seats, but will find out for sure.

Yes, it would definitely change the torque setting IF using a torque wrench but for most of my life I rarely do other than on heads and never blew a manifold gasket.

Not valves, looks like the rings failed. Hmmmm, what am I going to do now!?!?