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Today, me and a friend adjusted the choke assembly so the car finally starts under it's own power. Starting fluid no longer required. Previously, the temp ran high in as little as 15 minutes. So we also drained and flushed out the radiator and the engine block. The brass plug came out with little trouble and after it's final refill, the temp remains stable and takes much longer to rise. Charging system now gives aproximately 7 volts when tested at battery. Lastly, a thorough grease job was done. Next time it gets the air grease gun. That's a lot of pumping.

Glad to see things progressing nicely. So far, seems like lots of little aggravating things--hope it stays that way-- was too nice a car to sit in a car lot and deteriorate further so glad it found a good home.

Today, I took the Packard on it's first drive. About 4 miles round trip to get gas. No stalls, backfires, or other undue noises. Steers easier than I expected, although it seems that I must take curves about 10mph slower than any other car I've had. If not, you get a very long tire squeal on the large s curve nearby. Nearly got to 4 (40). Brakes work well but still haven't been checked and fuel guage doesn't work as is typical. I've never had a vehicle older than 1972 with a working fuel guage. I just fill them every 100 miles or so. After I warmed up the fluids and parked it by the garage, I drained and refilled the rear axle and gearbox. I figure that after 60+ years, it could use it. Was going to drive it again later but started raining and couldn't find wiper control. I suspect it's the missing control on top of the dash. Also noticed a missing trim piece.

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Today's mission involved checking the brakes and wheel bearings. Front drums came of easily and the grease in the hubs was a chocolate syrup consistency. Right side appeared normal, but the left was overflowing with grease. Shoes are riveted and read at 3/32. Wheel cyls are dry outside and under covers but lots of crusty stuff inside covers. Lubricated hand brake cables and got front and left rear free, right rear is sticking but I should be able to free it once I get the rear drums off. I have the puller but no wrench that fits rear drum nut. What size is that nut? 1 3/8? So that's where this week ends.

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This week I finished checking the brake system. Found something to fit the drum nut, an old style pipe wrench for old pipe unions. Noticed slight axle seal leak on RH side, but not real bad. Shoes are still high even though they're mismatched, riveted and bonded on the same wheel. Somehow I don't think they came that way. All 3 handbrake cables are now freed and operating fine, also oiled the wiper cable. I might as well rebuild all 4 wheel cylinders even though only the back ones leak. Figure the fronts can't be too far behind. Hopefully, I can get the power bleeder in there and flush the system since all I got out of it was rust water.

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Today, I got the power bleeder set up on the Packard and managed to get right-rear wheel cyl rebuilt before rain restarted.(after some m.cyl work on d.driver) I've never had a master cyl. that hard to get at, from above or below. I'm just going to leave the bleeder hooked up until I get all 4 done. All 4 bleeders have been loosened and checked for blockages. Only problem one seems to be right-front. Bleeder is clear but nothing comes out even with bleeder removed. I'd bet that's the cyl. that was giving me an extremely hard pedal some time ago. I'll get that one last.

Today I finished the work on the brake system to get it up to my standards for a driver. The right rear was done yesterday and work stopped early on account of rain. Did left rear today. Had to use grip-wrench on line fitting, one step short of visegrips. That was only problem with rear cyl work. Both sides had only minor pitting inside and some leakage through the seals. Honed up easily.
Left front was partially seized with heavy crusting and was pitted badly. Was able to hone it out enough to use but will have to sleeve it eventually. Right front is in category of it's own...

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While the LF was just crusty and badly pitted, the RF deserves it's own post. It was completely seized. Even standing on the pedal, it still wouldn't come apart. Only thing that would was the hard line end of the brake hose and even that with visegrips. Brought hose and cyl assembly in and, with a little heat and bench vise, got the hose free from the cyl. Hose was completely blocked so I replaced it. Pumped some fluid through to make sure hard line wasn't blocked. Couldn't get cyl apart in vise without damaging the pistons, so I put it and the hose back on the car. I pumped up the power bleeder and stomped brake pedal and it finally freed one side. The other had to be knocked out with a large punch. Oddly enough, this one had the least amount of pitting so it honed out easily. I put the brakes back together and bled whole system till fluid ran clear from all 4 wheels. The car now stops as it should, pedal is good and all 4 brakes now work. Now, with a little more electrical work, it'll be ready to drive soon.

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Today I gave to 48 it's tuneup. New plugs, points, cap, rotor, and wires. At first, the car didn't want to start so I traced the problem to my putting the wire ends on wrong. After removing and reinstalling the ends properly all was well. First time assembling plug wires and I didn't have enough of the core exposed for a good connection. After that I put on a new old set of wiper blades. Wiper motor still doesn't work but will take care of that soon. The car still cranks slow making it hard to start if not done frequently. Every now and then it'll kick in and crank fast. If I start it at least once a week, it'll start even when cranking slow. Now if only the rain around here would slow or stop...

Sounds like you should check the size of the battery cables (0 gauge at the least), the condition of the grounds, and the condition of the starter armature, brushes, and bearings/bushings.