Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Most, I believe, use type F however there are several who have been using B&M Trick Shift and recommend it highly for cars not driven much or after a long sit.

If it still grinds on upshift after about 500 miles of driving, try the Trickshift, it worked wonders for me. The trick to burning off the varnish off the direct drive clutch is to keep your foot in it, even when every bone in your body is telling you to let off the gas. You'll need to do this several times to get it burned off. When you get to the 500 mile mark, change fluid, and make sure you drain the converter too. Do this, and if it still grinds, give me a call or send me an email and I'll give you some more "esoteric" pointers to fix it.

OK,I have ordered a case of type F and after I flush it, it will get driven!

When you drive do you actually feel the torue converter lock up? I am sure I hear an exhaust note change and the car is cruising nice at 60mph, and for a two speed it does not seem to be working that hard....

Also the automatic suspension - right now it is operated manually - what kind of process is it to put it back to automatic?

The people on here have been very helpful with my questions, thanks to all.

CHeers!

To me, when the converter locks up it just feels like it shifted into high gear. I've never felt it unlock though. I like it, because when you take people for a ride, you say "watch this, I have a two speed transmission that shifts twice, now figure it out before I tell you the answer!" LOL, get's 'em confused every time!

As for the suspension, it all depends on what was wrong with it to make someone make it manual. Limit switches defective? Control box defective? You'll have to track down what the problem is first, then fix.

WRT restoring the T-L suspension automatic levelling fuction, there's a reasonably good diagnostic procedure in the shop manual, but you'll find them under the "Electrical" section - not "Suspension". A few relevant articles and bulletins were also published, and can be found here, through the site's Service Index.

Start with a visual inspection of the wiring to make sure it's all in place - not ripped up, chewed, corroded, or suffering from previous incompetent repairs. Then, get a 12V test light and a jumper wire and start checking, as directed by the shop manual and any applicable bulletins.

If you need further help with the T-L problem and to avoid confusion with your Ultramtic issues, I recommend you start separate thread, with an appropriate subject title, and report back with your findings.

Good luck!