Packard Forum Index » Modification Discussion

The purpose of this modification is to convert the oil filtering system on the 1955-56 Packard V-8 from bypass type (partial) filter to full flow (100%) filter.

The original oil/vacuum pump and bypass filter with plumbing is removed. In this version of the modification, the oil pump is replaced with the Oldsmobile 455 oil pump using the oil pump adapter kit developed by members of the Packard V-8 Club and currently sold by the author. The following steps presume that the Olds pump and adapter kit is available.

I will separate the instructions into four posts and will allow time between posts for others to post their comments and questions.

Part 1 of 4:

The engine must be stripped to the bare block and cleaned.

There are an existing pair of holes in the block near the pan rail between the #6 and #8 cylinders . They were originally used for the vacuum line from the vacuum pump on the bottom of the original oil pump. The new Olds pump has no provision for the vacuum pump and it is not used. Normally, one would just plug these two holes. Except in the case of the a full flow oil filter conversion, these holes are enlarged and retapped.

The original size is 1/8NPT. Drill both holes out with a 1/2 in drill. 1/2in will be the minimum internal diameter of all fittings and hoses in the conversion. Then drill both holes part way with 37/64in drill so they may be tapped for 3/8NPT. Keeping the drill perpendicular to the block mating surfaces may be facilitated by constructing a couple of simple, one time use jigs. Tap the holes with 3/8NPT tap.

Attach file:

---

  (28.09 KB)


  (29.38 KB)


  (32.52 KB)


  (28.51 KB)

What? No comments or questions?

OK, I'll relate a couple of questions that came up at the time I was doing part 1.

1) Question: Since the original hole is for vacuum and sized at 1/8NPT (0.332in) Is there enough thickness in the #6/8 main web for a 1/2 drilled through holes and a 9/16in or 37/64in holes (0.562-0.578) for the 3/8NPT threads?

Answer: Yes. Because there is an enlarged cast boss around the original internal hole in the main web. It is not quite as large as the main web parting line at the pan rail, but certainly large enough for a 0.562-0.578in hole. I do not have a bare Packard block handy right now to measure it, but I did measure it at the time. The hole from the outside goes through solid cast iron, not near the water jacket and meets the other hole at 90deg angle inside the cast bulge.

2) Question: Why 1/2in minimum internal diameter of all fittings and hoses?

Answer: Because of my experience with Pontiac V-8 engines. The minimum internal diameter of the major oil passages in a Pontiac V-8 are 1/2in. Also, Pontiac uses 3/8NPT plugs at the back of the oil galleries that feed directly off of the main passage coming from the oil pump. High performance Pontiac V-8s have seen much more abuse over the years than Packard V-8s ever have, so what's good for Pontiac should be good enough for Packard.

Craig

On the top of the block near the distributor are two oil gallery holes. One is normally used for the oil pressure gauge sender or idiot light sender. The other is normally plugged. Both are 1/8NPT.

The gallery hole pointing straight up will be redrilled and tapped for 3/8NPT similar to the holes at the pan rail. Another one time use jig could be used to align the drill (using the distributor hold down hole for attachment), but in the case pictured there two of us so we were just very careful to align it perpendicular using a steel "L" ruler (not pictured) by sight.

The bottom (angled) hole is unused both before and after conversion.

Attach file:

---

  (33.63 KB)


  (40.97 KB)


  (29.45 KB)


  (33.05 KB)

Guscha wrote: Quote:
<p>
Gerd,<p/>
<p>Clippers usually (maybe all) came without full instrumentation. To monitor oil pressure and temperature there is simply a red light which comes on if too low oil pressure or too high oil temperature. In USA we call these "idiot lights".</p>
<p>Two more parts to go. I'll try to post 3rd tomorrow and 4th Monday.</p>
<p>Craig</p>

The lower fittings and connections reroute the oil flow from the new Olds oil pump to the outside of the block via the modified holes in the pan rail area.

Use 3/8NPT to -10AN adapter fittings in both the inside hole and the oil pump. The oil pump must be drilled and tapped at the location shown. WARNING: You better know what you are doing when you drill and tap the Olds oil pump! Also, put the nearest bolt in loose BEFORE installing the fitting!

The discharge hole in the oil pump adapter block MUST be drilled and tapped and plugged with 3/8NPT plug.

Custom make -10AN hose to connect the oil pump fitting to the pan rail fitting. WARNING: You had better know what you are doing when you assemble this hose! To facilitate final assembly, leave the oil pump bolts loose while attaching the hose. Then tighten everything up alternately.

Here's a parts list from Summit Racing (these parts can also be purchased from a variety of sources, but Summit is probably the cheapest):

SUM-220066 (2 each) -10AN to 3/8NPT male fittings
SUM-220086 (1 each) 45deg -10AN hose end
SUM-220087 (1 each) 90deg -10AN hose end
SUM-230003 (3ft) -10AN steel braided hose

Craig

Attach file:

---

  (41.05 KB)


  (21.12 KB)


  (34.35 KB)


  (32.36 KB)


  (37.95 KB)


  (40.21 KB)


  (32.43 KB)

The upper fittings can be done different ways. The pictures show one way which clears the road pipe, the distributor and retains the oil pressure gauge sender. The hose is custom made.

The lower hose is also custom made and connects with a 3/8NPT to -10AN adapter to the hole in the side of the block below the pan rail.

Using a commercial kit, the remote oil filter is mounted on the side of the firewall and will be mostly hidden from view by the fender. The filter can be easily changed with access from below. The hoses are routed behind the heater box, also to hide them from view. MAKE SURE that the lower hose is connected to the INLET of the oil filter. The OUTLET from the filter is connected to the upper hose.

Be sure to take off the original Bypass oil filter and plug the hole in the Driver-side head and the hole in the block near the oil filler tube.

This completes the modifications and installation.

Attach file:

---

  (75.83 KB)


  (90.30 KB)


  (38.37 KB)


  (35.00 KB)


  (111.76 KB)


  (31.32 KB)

I finally got my mechanical full flow oil pressure gauge situated in my '55 400. I modified the old by-pass steel line (it had that perfect curve line that left the block) and used it behind a standard pressure gauge. The gauge stand was fabricated by a friend of mine. All that's left now is to spin the motor and ensure I have pressure. But then what oil am I to use??

Thoughts appreciated.

Attach file:

---

  (61.10 KB)


  (115.02 KB)


  (95.18 KB)


  (78.33 KB)


  (71.44 KB)


  (78.12 KB)


  (121.92 KB)

Kevin, the FIRST thing you need to do before you start that engine up is, while you're filling it up with oil, pour exactly ONE quart all over the outside of the engine, then go get some fine dirt and dump all over the oil. YOUR ENGINE IS TOO CLEAN!! It's BEAUTIFUL!!

This entire thread is so worthless...just run some Slick 50 and you're golden.










FEH!

Quote:

You're kidding... yes? Link: Slick 50