Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hi all:

Until recently, I had a friend who owned a garage with a lift. So this was a no brainer.

How do you guys accurately check your Ultramatic oil level? It seems, if you jack up the car in front or from the side. You get an inaccurate reading on the stick.

I have a slight throttle shaft seal leak that needs to be attended to. This leak is non existent when the car is running. It only comes to play when the car is shut down for some time. I suppose this is due to the oil slowly draining out of the converter. Raising the level of the oil, in the case, to the seal level?

Anyway, until I get the seal fixed. I need to check the oil often. And at 64, my frame doesn't fit well under my Packard's 55 year old frame very well. . To get at that silly stick, under the car. I guess you guys with functioning Gear Starts don't have this problem. Maybe it's time for a 700R2 swap.

Check this out, all you straight eight / ultramatic owners. Pretty neat huh?

transmissionadapters.com/Packard%20to%20Chev%20adapter%20kit.htm

Put in a Gear Start or buy a '55-'56 and you can use the dipstick.

I just throw mine up on 4 jackstands. I jack up the front first so it doesn't roll, install the stands, then jack up the back by the differential. When you have as many tranny problems as mine, you get quite fast at it!

I don't know of any easy way to check it either short of cutting an access panel in the side and corner of the trans tunnel. Your theory of why it leaks when it does is probably correct. To change the leaking seal is a bit involved but think possible without trans removal--& if that only leak maybe worth considering. 51Packards idea is the proper one, but he must be younger than we are (or maybe bend in more places better).


Am glad to see the adapter finally available as that does give some options for those inclined. Some have said they thought the 2004R would be a better choice for Packards though. Am also surprised to see the small gear reduction starter used with it as that pretty much dictates a change to 12v. Guess if you're doing a modern trans, modern electrics isn't a big stretch though.

Anyone seen these up close or have an idea to price? Their other kit prices seem to have a wide range.

That kit better be cheap if that's the only transmissions it works for. What happens if you'd rather put a manual trans behind it? A Chevy 4 or 5 speed behind the old straight eight would be ideal.

The adapter is a little confusing...why keep the powerplant stock and put a newer tranny on it. If you are going to modify the packard with a new tranny, why not a new motor? I'm going to keep the original tranny.

I also put the car on four jack stands to check the tranny level (52 300). On the road I drive onto a curb, keeping the car as level as possible, use a carbboard crawler, and reach up. I'm only 42 so I don't know what I'll do in 10 years when bending my arm upwards and backwards is no longer an option. Guess I'll need to stay in shape.

Where's a good spot to jack up (floor jack) the rear of my 52 300? I've been using the differential, but I think that is hard on the differential casing, not designed to take that pressure. Where the springs hit the axle? Ideas?

The only place they went to pains to say not to use in 51 is the center x member and some of the illustrations do show jacking the differential in back and frame xover in front.

Having said that, in 56 they introduced an attachment for hydraulic jacks to raise car level and evenly at the bumper support bars in front and back to place jackstands (SC Vol 30#6). Since the frames are virtually identical, would think that also is a recommended place on yours but need an awfully large jack without the adapter.

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I've seen factory photos showing cars being jacked up on the center of the X of the frame. This is not the only way to raise a car and unless you have a VERY long and heavy duty jack you'll never be able to. I found a Packard branded jack years ago buried in mud at the Todd Shipyard in San Fran which looked identical to the one I saw in that photo.

Unless the car in question is a custom body, limo or other professional car (heavier than normal) I'd say you should be alright jacking it in the center of the differential or under the front crossmemeber.

Prior to 51 the center x was strong and possibly a recommended spot. After the 51's came out mechanics still used it thus the service bulletin 50T-41.

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