Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

hey Clipper..Im beginning to think that maybe this is indeed a carb or fuel related issue..Reason..I did as instructed...pulled a few plugs and they are all dry...

Next step. Look down the carburetor throat. Open the choke butterfly so you can see really well down in there and move the throttle linkage by hand to wide open back and forth a few times. Use a flashlight if you have to but no matches or lighters! Do this and see if you can see fuel squirting out from the side of the throat above the throttle plates. If not you probably have a fuel issue and we'll move on from there. You might also slowly pour an ounce of fuel down the throat and open the throttle plates to let it seep down into the engine and turn it over again and if you have fire down there the engine should at least sputter to life for a second or two.

Clipper47

Just came in..Went down to hardware store got some hose.
disconnected the fuel line to carb ...attached clear plastic hose and cranked engine...no problem there...it was piss'in fuel into the hose and into a Pepsi bottle.

there was gas however all over the base of carb and carb chanmber..gas on manifold betweeen carb and engine... floor wet with gas on garage floor.

after dinner will do as instructed .

I was thinking all this time the smell of gas was just because the eng was flooded. from working on it the last few weeks...in all actuallity..it was prob good anyway to change points rotor condensor making new coil cables..adj points etc...by the way I did reset the points to .017...in various sources ive seen the whole gammut from setting the points from .015 to .018 depending on the source..
I did pull the carb gas screen out and it has sediment on it

the top and outside bowl is seething wet with petro.

clipper

did as instructed...moved the linkage(pumping) several times. no squirt..I take it you mean from the copper tube that comes from the side of the inside throat and enters the inside of the venturi..has a small hole in it..I take it that is the lead pipe from the bowl to the venturi so it can be aspirated.

well, it looks like carburetor cleaning and rebuild time.
have to order a kit tommarrow. Hopefully have by Saturday.
My carb is a WA-1 Carter model 477 S per tag.

I think an inline fuel filter may help also down the road and not rely on the fine mesh screen in carb itself.

"Well Jane, if it ain't one thing, its another"
Roseann Roseannadana

sludge in carb screen eh?? in other words...where does it come from...like tank...so after it get running get ready to drop and clean the tank...per Turbo Packerd

Also not sure if the '37 Fuel Pumps have it or not. But the later fuel pumps also have a screen on the inlet side of the pump. This usually clogs first.

while waiting for the carb rebuilding kit...went to check battery too with my "new multimeter"" lol

shows 6.3 volts..

with a starter load 5.5

THAT WAS STUPID...i FORGOT i HAD THE Carb sitting on my kitchen table waiting for repair kit...so while i was cranking to measure starter load...the fuel pump was piss'in gas all over my garage floor....oh mannnn !

well..I guess all is not lost..the double action fuel pump works quite nicely..now where did i put the kitty liter???..hmmm better get that issue addressed pronto as our gas furnace is located only 10 feet away...yikes

While waiting for the Carb rebuilt kit to arrive, I went to the National Service manual for cars 1925-1937 and looked at Igition timing for the distributor..a term i'm not familiar with is setting "Fuel Compensator" what is it and where is it located??

Under Ignition timing the book states as follows for the 115c 1937

Ignition Timing
Std heads: flywheel degr. 2 1/2-4 degrees BTDC
Piston Position .0025-.0064" BTDC

To Set Timing

Remove cover over inspection hole in the left front face of the flywheel housing under the starter.

Loosen thumbnut and set the Fuel Compensator at '0'. Tighten thumbnut

With # 1 Piston on compression, turn engine over until piston reaches firing position. Stop when the correct graduation on flywheel before dead center mark, #1UP D.C. lines up with the pointer in inspection whole. Loosen advance arm clamp bolt, rotate distributor until contacts begin to open., tighten clamp bolt, see that rotor opposite # 1 segment in distributor cap.