Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Apparently you did not run into too many creepy, crawly, bitty, stingy small things. Thank goodness for small favors, eh?

Craig

What kind of primer was it? if it was regular primer the car is going to need to be stripped again to bare metal. If it was epoxy primer you are good to go.

Not one bite, Craig, except the metal kind.
I realize the primer is iffy, with some kinds being "hydrophilic" or tending to absorb water. This is so far "mystery primer" but it is absolutely hard, gray, not chalky, although I realize that the corrosion can start underneath the primer--but it doesn't show anything on the surface, at least.


HERE'S THE RUNDOWN FROM MY NOTES

Model: 5687 Paint VM Trim 85 (white with black trim on bottom and roof)

All chrome removed except: door handles, drip rails, door "flippers", rear bumper, front bumper and grill.


BODY and accessories UPSIDE

>All body panels and seams very straight (you could sight down each side with nary a wrinkle). Owner pointed out one "dent" which was a tiny depression in left rear quarter, not even really a dent.

>Dual rear antennas (makes it obvious car has new front clip--driver's side front fender has an antenna hole) Both antennas in the trunk, right under their respective holes!

>Good front bumper, with gold screen intact (slightly bent at driver's side end).

>Lower front bumper good except for one small 'can opener' mark at bottom... obviously from towing.

>Rear bumper good, no dents, some rust on left side of left exhaust outlet.

>Taillights and backup lights good... no cracks in any lenses.

>Windshield and rear window moldings probably useable, some drying and cracking. Glass looks good in both, all glass is tinted.

>Dash good, missing lighter knob. Don't know if gauges function, though.

>Didn't inspect the dash pad. Looked black. Steering wheel black and white.

>Floor panels solid in front (carpet removed)

>Trunk solid, but liner shot

>Brake and accelerator pedals showed little wear.

>Electric windows and power seat.

>All four hubcaps on the car, and wide-white tires even looked like they had a little life in them, but dream on, right?

>Could not inventory all the chrome and removed interior pieces, but actually found 3 headlight doors, so may be extras of other parts. Asked about the long chrome pieces for rear quarters and was told they were there.


BODY and accessories DOWNSIDE

>Front corner lamp frames had busted lenses.

>One sidemarker lamp found had busted lens. Other one not found.

>Inner door panels removed, including window switches,evidently to get primer shot inside.

>Upholstery needs replacement, patterned gray/black cloth and white leather trim.

>Headliner salvageable(?) no rips, but detached in places.

>Back seat full of stuff, but looked a bit better than front--couldn't get to rear shelf.

>No front carpet, probably all been removed. Also (upside) no musty smell!

>3 cracked windows, including passenger side door glass and rear side glass, driver's side vent window. (All flat glass... but can they match the tint?)

>No spare or jack.


MECHANICAL UPSIDE

Sitting level front to back and side to side.

Engine appears unmolested: Bronze block, Ivory valve covers.

Radiator looked good, but had either been drained or slow leak.

Hoses and belts just fine (from the outside, looked new).

Oil on dipstick clean and full.

Trans fluid dipstick clean and full, no burnt smell.

Rebuilt generator and new voltage regulator.

Glass filter bowl full of clean gas. Didn't inspect carb. Couldn't get at gas tank.

Air ducting all there except flexible connecting pieces... looked like new screens in inlets. Blower motor mounted in front???

Everything nicely painted inside front clip: battery box, inner fenders (incorrect black, though). Firewall original white, as was inside of trunk.

New dual exhaust all the way back from the manifolds.

No drips underneath on clean concrete.

Frame had some surface corrosion but looked very solid.


MECHANICAL DOWNSIDE

Bright blue paint on trans pan-- rebuilt?

No water in radiator... possibly just drained, but...


OVERALL, this car is kind of backwards... an apparently sound body, impressive-looking mechanically, but lots of chrome and accessories to piece together, and in interior with major issues.

WHAT I THINK
I think someone wanted to drive it while they fixed it, got to the point they had too much apart to drive it any more and the fun went out of the project. Everything done on it mechanically seems to have "driver" written all over it.

FEEL FREE TO ASK if there's anything missing that you'd like to know, I may have just forgottent to include it.

COMMENTS welcome, but keep it clean, after all it's a Packard.

If the mechanicals are verified to be as good as they look,
what would you pay for a car like this?

YOUR HERE PLEASE

How many miles are showing on the odometer????

I would be wary of rust without undercarriage inspection..

PackardV8,

I did look under it, and saw only surface rust. Of course, I couldn't crawl all around because of clearance problems.

Guy,

I'd pay $500 max, IF the current owner moved it out to where you can load it up on a transport of some kind. Plan on bring an electric winch, a mechanical winch with some friends or a lot of friends to push it up on the transport.

You did not mention the status of the paper title.

This sounds like a major project, but probably a good basis for a restore. Plan on spending at least $10K, maybe up to $25K depending on how you want to restore it.

If the seller wants more than $500, I'd walk. I've bought comparable for $300 and free (just haul it away) in the last few years, as a reference.

Just MHO.

Craig

I'll agree with Craig on the $500 max price tag. His post above says exactly what i was thinking too.

+2 on the $500. $250 if you have to move it out yourself.

Guy -

What you describe sounds typical of most project cars. Without pix, I can only touch on some things that raised my eyebrow.

Ivory valve covers are not correct on a '56 - nor is blue paint on the trans in the 400.

However, as others have noted, trying to get the car in running condition before you buy will only drive up the asking price. DON'T DO THAT!

At most, you should go out with a fully charged battery and a fire extinguisher.

When it comes to old cars NEVER use dry-chemical extinguisher; they might stop a fire, but they leave a terrible mess behind. If anyone used a dry-chem extinguisher on one of my cars, I'd sue them for the high cost of clean-up of that mess. When it comes to old cars, I only use and recommend a HALON or CO2 extinguisher. While halon extinguishers are fantastic, they are a bit hard to come by - therefore pricey, but still well worth it.

All you want to do with the engine at this point is make sure it is not seized. Of course, remove the spark plugs to make cranking the engine easier. ATF works as well as MM oil, unless you wanna go to the trouble of pulling the valve covers and dosing the valve stems and rockers, as well. A few drops in the oil cups on the generator and distributor might not hurt, either. As long as it's got the correct 4GC carb, chances are good that it can be rebuilt, later; steer clear of exchange services, however.

While you could simply bar the engine over at this point, it's better to hook up a battery - provided the car doesn't have any obvious wiring issues. Then, you can not only see if the starter works and the engine cranks over, but you'll also be able to give the rest of the electricals a cursory examination - including push button transmission controls. Granted, without the engine running, you're not gonna be able to evaluate the transmission, but that's the chance you have to take with vehicle in this condition. Having the Twin Ultra rebuilt is not the horror story that some people make it out to be; you just have to choose your rebuilder carefully and bite the bullet.

You may be able to find good used glass with frames. Mike Dulinksi of Duluth probably has what you need.

When it comes to body sheet metal rust-through, aside from the most visible, check:

floor pan - front extension (toe board to kickpanel)
floor pan - body mount areas
floor pan - cross-body reinforcements (to inner rocker)
floor pan - remove rear seat bottom
floor pan, trunk - rear trough, esp. body mount area
front fenders - headlamp brows
front fenders - ahead of wheel (under turn signal trim)
front fenders - under heavy die cast molding
front fenders - rear of wheel
front doors - outer skin separating at bottom
rear doors - outer skin separating at bottom
rear fenders - wheel openings (dog legs & fit of skirts)
rear fenders - outer wheelhouse (above top of wheel opening)
rear fenders - rear of wheel (under gravel shields)
rocker panels - inner & outer

No matter what the seller tells you, if you buy this car, you will want to strip the current primer off and start over. Would you really want to chance you all the $$$ you invest in the finish coats only to have them peel off or otherwise fail due to a problem with the primer or whatever is underneath it? I've been there, done that, and won't get fooled again.

Assuming engine and transmission are in good working order, the most expensive thing you're gonna run up against after paint and chrome, will be the upholstery.

I would be surprised if the seller would accept much less than $2K for the car as you've described it. Though it is possible to run into a bargain with an uninformed seller, $300-$500 is typical of cars that are only good enough to cut up for parts. Check the price guides and see what other 400s, in a variety of conditions, are presently going for on eBay and in Hemmings or AutoTrader.

BH gives good advice on the Fire extinguishers. I'm not going into any detail on it but for all intents and purposes the dry chem, especialy the small ones u see in cars at shows is strictly gimmick and u mite as well piss on the fire as to use those little dry chem types.


When dealing with disabled cars one must always keep a set of tires around in 14" and 15". They can be worn out but need to hold air for at least 3 days. Mount them up on wheels that will fit the application. OR take wheels and tires from a car u presently own along with u so u can put them on the disabled car, if they are a wheel that will fit the application .

Very few people mount and dismount their own tires. Most everyone wants to run to a tire shop to let the tire shop do it. THis is folley!!!!! What happens if it's thanksgiving weekend and u need some mounted?????

All u need is a GOOD QUALITY hand operated bead breaker, 2 tire spoons and a 2 pound hammer and a little grease. Grease is just fine for such temporary 'get it done' situations.