Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I have not yet. I guess it is going to come down to how similar the 51-56 spindles/steering arm are. If the are too many different different one, then I am sure this could present a problem.

I one or two kits could be made that would work across all the 51-56 variants, then I think we could get the numbers together to get them manufactured. But if 5 different kits need to be made, then that could be an issue.

Turner is going to need someone to send him a basically a complete assemble to use for moch-up. Spindle, Steering arm, backplate, and drum. So anyone have an extra assembly of a parts car that wants to volunteer for this. I would suppose a 55/56 assemble, and a 51-54 assembley would be the best so Turner can tell us if one kit can be made to fit both.

If anyone has a donor set as you mentioned and are interested in possibly having an upgrade kit created for Packard I for one would be willing to help them with shipping cost to Turner Brake if needed.

I have sat back and have been watching this thread with some interest. I will be the first to state that I am only a shade tree mechanic. However I would like to ask the following question to those thinking about converting to disc brakes. What kind of modern master cylinder and power booster unit would you use. That would be kind of hard converted to do on high pockets series being the location of the master cylinder and the mounting of the brake pedal. Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the 55 and 56's have the same type of mounting system and brake pedal arrangement as the high pockets.

Another problem you run into with this conversation is what kind of proportioning valve do you use. It seems to me that you have to have a balance of when the front disc brakes come on in proportion to when the rear brake shoes start their braking action.

I remember an old thread in the AACA forum about Craigs convertion to a modern brake master cylinder for his Packard using a Honda master cylinder. I remember the way he mounted his brake pedal on the floor. The way he choose to do that was crude at best

John F. Shireman

John,
Glad you quit sitting back and joined in.
Upgrading the power booster is not the BIG issue here as I have already seen some booster upgrades, it is an easily adaptable and affordable front disc brake upgrade for Packard so those of who drive theirs can do so much safer. As for proportioning valves, these are available for installing between master cylinder and brakes, there is one that has a delay to let rear brakes apply first in sequence with fronts and then there are those that can be manually adjusted for balance. I started this thread in hopes someone had some answers or solutions on disc upgrade because the original system almost cost me the car right after we got it last October. We plan on enjoying it and DRIVING it to shows as we do in our Street Rodded 1937 Studebaker, this is what gets the forgotten cars out there for young and old to see.

Bill

G'day all, Welcome to 2008 and it is sooo good to be still above the ground and driving a Packard. I have just fitted a remote Power Booster (PV44) to my 38 Six, to lower the pedal pressure for my 110 lb wife, and it is a great improvement. The max input pressure is 450PSI and the max output pressure is 820 PSI. It mounts easily beside the original master cylinder (would be easier for LHD) and I shall post a few pics on it. The vacuum draw is from the carby to avoid any cylinder leaning. The boosters are around $A250 overhauled and the piping is pretty cheap ( around $A7 for two double flanges on your pipe with your fittings) I have not noticed that a proportioning valve is necessary at this time, but they are readily available at the local auto spares shop. I have still to fit the Ford discs to the 120 but hope to this year. Best regards Peter Toet

At the master cylinder you will need either a combination valve that is adjustable independently for front and rear. Or you will need separate residual pressure valves in each system. Disk and drum breaks require different residual pressure.
I have installed disk brakes on my modified Studebaker PU and used residual pressure valves in line following the master cylinder.
Good luck I'll be interested in seeing how it works out for you.

Turner provides the residual pressure valves with his dual MC kit for Studes. If you tell him you run drums front & rear, he will send two 6 psi valves; if you have discs up front, he will send a 6 psi valve for the rear and a 2 psi for front.

He also includes the proportioning valve with his DB setup for Studes, and could/would include them for Packards. Summit racing is also a source for either of those valves.

Thought the residual pressure valves are a must, I have never needed the proportioning valve in just the MC conversion, or the MC & DB conversion combined. I understand the concept, but just have not needed them. An acid test is to drive about 20 mph on pavement and lock the brakes up, then check the skid marks for each wheel. You can do the same thing in gravel, and it is a little easier on the system, but you don't get as good a "readout" on each wheel's lockup pattern.

Joe H

The only time you need a residual pressure valve is when the master cylinder is lower than the calipers on a disc brake system. It keeps some residual pressure (hence the name) in the caliper to reduce pumping when it comes time to stop. Without this pressure, you'd have to pump the brakes a couple of times to get it to stop. I solve this problem by mounting the master cylinder high up on the firewall, where such a valve is not needed. It solves the problem once and for all, without extra connections and crap in the lines.

TO ALL: After reading this thread on brake upgrades go me to thinking about one of my own cars. The first thing I will state that the car I am working on right now is my 66 Chevelle.

I have been working on my Chevelle and now have the head off the car and will be getting the head redone in the near future. Since the Chevelle is down right I think it is time to redo the brake system. The last time anything has been done to the brake system was about 10 years ago. I would like to put a dual chamber master cylinder on the Chevelle and go to a dual brake system. I need advise on how to make this conversion.

I know this isn't a question concerning anything pertaining to Packard's, but please be forgiving of me for asking this.

No I am not going to do a convertion to disc brakes.

John F. Shireman

If there is no sign of leakage or other problems then LEAVE IT ALONE!!! Pop a wheel cylinder bleeder if u want to and inspect the fluid. If it's not terribly merky then LEAVE IT ALONE!!!

I would STRONGLY advise AGAINST changing to dual cylinder. The dual cylinder is really not as good as the single in that u will experience a spongier brake pedal. The dual cylinder was more or less a precursor to the disk brake introduction. It's not any better and not significantly any safer. The dual cylinder was introduced in and about 1965 to 1969 which was about the same time disks (front were offered as option. The dual cylinder for drum brakes is basically a mfg'er advantage allowing them to test with public, they didn't have to stock two different cylinders and to hit the rebuilders.

If the car is automatic u probably will NOT want the dual cylinder especialy if u live in an area that has ice and snow or other slippery conditions.

Bottom line. Do not convert to dual unless the original single cylinder is unavailable or too costly as is the case wiith the Packard.