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31. After placing the brake drum back onto the axle spindle, push the newly packed bearing into place (again, narrow end first).

32. Tighten the nut, with the alignment button, all the way down with medium force. This will seat the bearing snug with the race.

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33-34. Slide the washer with the aligment holes into place. If a hole doesn't match with the button, you can either back the nut off slightly, or, in this case, torque it a little more to match the two pieces. It would depend on which way is closer.

35-36. If the cotter pin can fit through the key hole after the outer nut is placed, you know that the inner nut has been sufficiently torqued. Install a new cotter pin with the ends bent over the nut to keep it from backing off, then reinstall the cover, and you're done.

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37. Go back and double check that all the new cotter pins are in place and bent back ov their repsective nuts. Finish by greasing the entire front end, especially the parts you've just replaced. You'll know you've added enough grease when it starts to ooze out the joints.

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NEXT:
I need to pull off the front clip, as the front motor mount bushing has collapsed, and I cannot remove the oil pan because of it. There are many, many other things I'll do while the front clip is removed as well.

West, excellent tutorial. The black and white photos are especially clear. Can't wait until you publish the next installment.

(o {I} o)

Since I had all the fluids changed, I thought I'd take it out for a first ride of the spring before tearing it apart. Unfortunately, the coolant started coming out of the radiator at a rather rapid pace, so this is all the further I got.

Teardown pretty much started immediately. Upon removing the spare tire covers, I discovered two of the original double white sidewall tires!!! Tread wasn't great, but they both hold air, AND they fit under the spare tire covers. Double white sidewall tires were standard equipment on the 180 models, and I don't think they're available anymore. I think I'll keep those for a while.

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It took two friends and me about two hours to get to this point. If I had to do it all over again, I would remove the front wheels and put it up on jack stands. They tend to get in the way as you try to pull it forward.

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With the front motor mount bushing completely sagged, not only was I not able to get the front bolts off of my oil pan, but the engine dropped down to the point where one of the water pump bolts was resting on the motor mount cradle.

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6. We wedged a 1x6 and raised the engine so that we could remove the front cradle.

7. New and old front motor mounts.

8. With the motor mount fixed, we removed the water pump to begin flushing the engine completely. I was happy to find a very intact distribution tube.

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Since someone in the past had painted the engine the wrong color, I decided now was the time to strip everything off and paint it the proper color. At the same time, I repainted the pullys and fan, oil filter canister, generator, etc.

I noticed that the shocks were leaking, so I decided now was the time to pull them off and get them rebuilt.

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