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I'm thinking I might try to swing the rear with some 2x4s or 2x6 (if I have them) by making a "track" with them and using the jack on top of them as Rusty is suggesting. If I get the hand winch (come along?) I could attach that to my garage as an anchor to help move it.

Owen...now that I think of it, I tried putting more fluid in from my first post...that was in April so if it did spring a leak, it may be low. I think I'll throw another quart in there, maybe until I see it leak out the bottom. Won't run it overfilled for very long though. Just enough to move it (if it works). I know you aren't supposed to overfill transmissions, but do you think it would get damaged any worse doing it just long enough to reposition the car (assuming it will drag the stuck wheel too)?

Frankly, if it's a real leaker, one quart is probably not enough to make a difference. I'd think about several quarts and if it's overfull, it should just blow out the breather. In any case I don't think you can do any harm for the minute or two or five that it may be running.

OK...I'll fill it until it won't hold anymore as plan A. Floor jacks and bad back will be plan B. Thanks! I'll let you guys know what happens!

Success! Sort of... looks like MikeC and Owen_Dyneto were right! Fluid was too low. Even though I "topped" it off back in April and it had no effect, I may have been too afraid to overfill it. This time I put in 4 quarts and reverse and H now work! Wheel was moving pretty good at idle. L still does not work. Sunday, if the weather holds out, I'll fill the tires and see if she will pull out of her grave. If not, I'll try more fluid.

Now I wonder if the level was low all this time and that is why it wouldn't move? Not that I want to deal with a leak now, but hopefully it is at the pan and easy to fix.

Thanks everyone for your help! Keep your fingers crossed that I don't need to go to plan B!

Of course, once I get it moved, I still have to deal with the locked up wheel and L not working...

Well, I jacked up all the tires and put bricks in the dirt divots to fill them up. Hit the stuck wheel a couple of times with a 10 lb sledge (only the tire, not the rim) hoping to free it. Pumped up the tires and fired her up. Put it in H and the idle dropped. Revved the motor and nothing. Put it in reverse and she moved easily. Backed out of the divots. Put it in H again and it still wouldn't move. I know the wheel moved in H when it was off the ground. Added 2 more quarts but no change. I think it is overfilled now because I see the spot under the car getting bigger.

Now for plan B. Forgot to get the come along, but will get it on Monday. Hoping to pull the car forward with it and either work on the trans while it is parallel over the driveway or pull it forward and then use reverse to back it up and around if I have enough room.

Still don't know if this is "normal" considering L does not work. I read in a different thread that L and R use bands. I know I had a problem with the plates coming off the bands in the past and I am assuming (hoping) that is what is wrong with L. I would be happy getting L back in service. Does H utilize L in anyway, or is H an independant system and won't be fixed by fixing L? Hope that makes sense!

You are right, low and rev use bands. High is completely independent of low. High is only affected if the seals in the low and reverse servos are leaking badly.

Ross is correct in saying High operates independently of L and R bands. The Low range band holds the Low range drum and front sun gear stationary forcing the epicyclic planetary gears to provide the low gearing. The High range clutch when applied with pressure from the front pump(or rear pump after engagement of the direct drive clutch and idling of the front pump), spins the epicyclic sun and planetary as a single unit giving a 1 to 1 drive to the rear of the box. I would suggest that with L you may have a problem with the timing valve in the valve body. With the lack of real drive in H you may be looking at a supply pressure problem to the clutch pack due to leakage etc, although it is not generally apparent until the box warms up. Overfilling causes foaming and can seriously degrade performance of the box selection processes. I would use a come along or someone's trailer hitch to move the vehicle until you sort out the trans. On the other hand.....If the car drove into the spot ok then you would expect the car to drive out. I personally would chock the wheels, start the car , put it into L and leaving the car at a reasonable fast idle (say 1000 rpm), have a 10 minute cup of coffee behind the wheel and see if the box warming up, combined with natural vibrations allows the gear to select. Worth a try. Peter Toet

Thanks Ross and Peter Packard. I tried putting the car in L and letting it run for 10 minutes, but nothing happened. Then I tried H and reverse and also nothing. Must really be leaking to be down on fluid again from yesterday. I added 6 quarts so far in the last couple of days. All out of fluid so I can't try to put more in. Tomorrow I'll pick some more up and the come along. I'll fill the car first and let it idle in L for 10 minutes. If that doesn't work then I'll use the come along.

Is there no access plate in the floor for checking the transmission? If not I would be thinking of making one.