Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Sure. Did on a 56, don't think yours should be much different. Lift the car, remove the levers, remove the old seal and tap a new one in. If the replacement seals are thin enough, sometimes you can just drive the original seal in far enough to just add the next one next to it.

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I HIGHLY recommend that you DO NOT do this. Driving a seal further in an automatic transmission can cause the seal to tear apart, which will allow pieces of it to go into all kinds of places inside the transmission, which of course could have very detrimental consequences.

I'd recommend doing it the right way the first time, instead of doing a "band aid" fix like that.

I agree that it's a slipshod way to do it, but please check me out on this - I believe the bore that holds the seal is blind (except for the shaft protruding) so the seal cannot be pushed into the transmission internals.

That depends on how worn out the shaft and bore is. I still don't think it's a good idea, in any case.

Well, don't you think it's highly unlikely the shaft is worn, and if so a new seal or seals won't solve the problem anyway. And the only way the bore could be damaged since nothing rotates within it's OD was by a hammer mechanic abusing the casting when try to remove an old seal.

All this said, I am agreeing with you that it's not the best practice.

The shaft seals on the outside of the bore that I'm talking about. I mean the bore of the case inside the transmission that the shaft uses as a bearing surface. It will wear more there than on the seal simply because aluminum is harder than a seal.

Plus, driving the old seal in further will make it that much harder to get out at a later date.

And yes, it's not good practice.

I was just speaking with Ross on another Ultramatic matter and brought this question up. There is room for double seals on all but the 56 with pushbutton on the actuator shaft. While dualing the seals isn't great practice and perhaps not a prevelant practice, he says it's not that uncommon either and apparently without issue.

To fill the transmission I use a dedicated pump to inject fluid at the dipstick point. This is the procedure outlined in the service manual. I've notice the access plate on the hump but never thought that working from two sides of the vehicle could be a timesaver.

Either way requires more perserverance than the typical flat rate service garage would undertake. Thus, the Ultramatic was prone to low fluid level and overheating.

The Hydramamtic system wasn't great, and neither was the Chrysler Fluid Drive because many times the fluid was only checked concurrent to a performance complaint. And that means damage. However, at least you can cut a hole in the carpet to manage an acute condition. An informed customer was not going to complain about a round piece of carpet in an old clunker when the alternative was expensive transmission repair. Even less so for an ugly rubber mat.

Well, if people want to take the lazy way out and make it harder for the next guy then I guess go for it. I prefer to do things right the first time and not have to worry about it.

As Jack Vines says, "It's your car, your money, your decision."