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Re: Building it correctly - getting the crud out
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Home away from home
 
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quote: "...learned there is no way to know the inside is clean unless we can look through end-to-end."
Drag a string with a white cloth attached to the string thru it until there is no dirt on the cloth. Clean is clean. The blind ends blow out just fine with a small bent tube attached to the air blow gun. I'll agree that removing an end plug or both is faster and better way to do it.
Posted on: 2010/9/2 16:50
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VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7245 |
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Re: Building it correctly - getting the crud out
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Home away from home
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Getting a bit OT here:
Quote: IMO, there was no need for rocker shaft design in the Packard V-8 since the RPM was not that high. When the Studebaker and Packard V8s were being designed, the best practice they had to copy were the first-generation Kettering Cadillac and Oldsmobile V8s, and copy they did. The Pontiac and Chevrolet stud-and-ball innovation didn't debut til long after the S-P designs were locked in. Quote: Some old crud which may come loose in the rocker shafts is not the same thing as ditto in the main oil feeds. Craig, you're going to have to help me on this one. Why is crud in the rockers coming loose and circulating less damaging than crud in the main oil feeds coming loose and circulating? To me, crud in the oil is crud in the oil. jack vines
Posted on: 2010/9/2 21:57
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Re: Building it correctly - getting the crud out
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Home away from home
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Another thing to remember is that Jack's procedures are applicable to any engine rebuild, regardless of age or make.
"Cleanliness is next to Godliness" cannot be stressed enough during an engine rebuild, and it's best to behave like you're a doctor doing open heart surgery when the time for final assembly comes along. At least that's what I do. I've taken engines to the shop to have them hot tanked and when I get them back home all the oil galleys are still filled with sludge. I've found the best way to clean them is a gun cleaning kit with the brass brushes and a lot of brake cleaner/carb cleaner/acetone/etc and keep scrubbing until it all comes cleaned. Then, take it back to the shop and have it hot tanked again, then when it gets home break out the brushes and do it again. Overkill? Probably. Worth it in my book? Priceless.
Posted on: 2010/9/2 22:20
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Re: Building it correctly - getting the crud out
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Home away from home
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Jack Vines wrote: Quote:
Getting a bit OT here: True, but I'm just sayin' that the rocker shaft design was an overkill. Quote:
My point is simply that old crud coming loose in the rocker shafts is NOT going to the bearings directly and will (hopefully) not be as destructive as old crud going directly to the bearings. With the bypass oil filter, that is really hopeful. A minor, minor difference, I'll grant. Craig
Posted on: 2010/9/2 23:34
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Nuke them from orbit, it's the only way to be sure! Ellen Ripley "Aliens"
Time flies like an arrow. Frui |
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Re: Building it correctly - getting the crud out
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Home away from home
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Sorry if a bit off topic, but were straight eights as difficult to get clean prior to a rebuild? Granted, they had no lube in the head, no rocker shafts or ball-studs, but what about the rest of the block?
Posted on: 2010/9/3 8:00
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56 Clipper Deluxe survivor
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Re: Building it correctly - getting the crud out
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Forum Ambassador
 
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Granted, they had no ..........rocker shafts
Others can comment on the differences in cleaning one versus the other but I suspect the difference isn't particuarly significant. But note that the prewar "Standard" and Super Eights thru 1939 did have rocker shafts.
Posted on: 2010/9/3 9:03
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Re: Building it correctly - getting the crud out
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Home away from home
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With an oil galley that runs a full 3 feet long I'd say that they're just as difficult maybe more so. That's where the gun cleaning brush comes in handy. A .22 size brush is great for oil passages, and a .45 size brush comes in handy on the larger galleys.
Posted on: 2010/9/3 11:37
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Re: Building it correctly - getting the crud out
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Let me throw you the big question:
What price range does a motor overhaul cover for a Packard V8? Presumeably it usually falls between X and Y bucks; what are X and Y?
Posted on: 2010/9/3 23:02
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When two men ride the same horse, one has to be in the back...
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Re: Building it correctly - getting the crud out
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Home away from home
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Mininum of $3000 for a basic long block rebuild, Everything new except block, crank, rods and heads/rockers.
Figure $4000 for a precision rebuild with line-honed main bores, balanced rotating assembly, block decked, ARP rod nuts and so on. Most expensive performance engine thus far was $10,000, with forged pistons, roller cam, supercharger and EFI. jack vines
Posted on: 2010/9/4 0:31
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