Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Turbopackman -

Thanks for the suggestion. That may be the direction we'll have to go.

Turbopackman -

My reply apparently got lost. Thanks for the suggestion. That may be the direction we'll have to go.

Turbopackman probably has the best suggestion and one I would also recommend.

It is possible to start the engine or keep the shifter from moving fairly easily BUT with brakes apparently not working and not knowing what gear it is in or if stuck halfway in between gears, it would be very difficult to do this safely and without risk of damage to transmission or something else.

If you did decide to try, then removing the orange supply wire coming from starter solenoid and feeding circuit breaker on fender protecting shift components will disable that system entirely. Connecting or jumpering the two brown wires together on the small 3 terminal black relay located above the larger 6 terminal black relay will allow the starter to work.

I second Turbopackman's suggestion. If you can't get to the actuator easily that is the best thing to do. You would have to remove the motor ("danger Will Robinson!") then turn the shaft in the actuator housing to the reverse position, where you will be able to access the set screw that fastens the actuator to the valve body shaft. The armature will want to stay on the actuator, causing the brushes to snap together, and that is where the fun starts. I have a fixture I made for getting the armiture back in the motor, this makes it easier for me on the bench, I have done it under the car, and I don't relish the experience.

As I understand it, Packard made a running change in 1956 to disable or disconnect the part of the push button control that put the transmission in PARK when the key was turned off. How can I accomplish the same thing without screwing up the system?

Bernardi

See this information as found in the Service Index here on the website:


Automatic Park Relay added
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL29NO12.pdf (2nd page in the document)

Removal of Automatic Park Relay
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/STB/56T-25.pdf

You can also find more information on the Push Button by clicking on the Service Index on the main menu, clicking on 55/56 Series, and then clicking the Twin Ultramatic section.

BigKev -
Thank you. I'll get into it.

Bernardi

BigKev -

I'm a little slow on the uptake occasionally and found the two references inconsistent and confusing. Apparently the illustrations for the removal of the Control Relay from early production cars shows wire color codes applicable to them. It looks as if they changed the color code when the factory quit installing the Control Relay. That made the instructions for removal of the Automatic Park Relay a pain to figure out.

Thanks again for the two references. I would not have attempted the removal of the Automatic Park Relay without them.

Bernardi

Push Button Adventures -

With the references that BigKev gave me,I learned that
1. Packard added the Automatic Park Relay as a safety feature for 1956. (Service Counselor Vol 29, No. 12, Nov 15, 1955.)
2. Packard discovered that the Control Relay function could be handled by the Automatic Park Relay and recommended removing the Control Relay. (Service Couonselor Vol 30, No 1, January 1956)
3. The Automatic Park Relay activated the parking pawl when the ignition key was turned off, even if the car was still moving. Not good! Some customers apparently complained - I suspect that parking lot attendants caused a lot of damage in their rush to park and get to the next customer. Packard recommended removal of the Automatic Park Relay. (Service Technical Bulletin 56T-25 - undated)

Tonight we disconnected both the Control Relay and the Automatic Park Relay. When the battery was connected, there was no clicking of relays. When the ignition was turned on, there was no clicking of relays. When the push buttons were pushed, we could hear the click of the actuator shifting gears(I hope). When reverse was pushed, the backup lights came on. All very gratifying!

If we can only get the engine to start --- The starter turns the engine over. With the help of a little ether
it fires once or twice but does not continue to run. Even if the fuel filter were clogged or no fuel at all got to the carburetor, I'd expect it to run for a few seconds.

It didn't run well, but it did run a few days earlier.

Any suggestions will be gratefully accepted. The ones to date have been really helpful.

Bernardi

Depending on how much starting fluid used, I'd agree it should run for a second or two. It does sound electrical like there is not a proper spark. The circuit you changed for the auto park function also ties into the ignition at the ballast resistor on firewall. One thing you might do is verify that the voltage at the end of resistor with yellow and white wires is there and a constant 12v to ground as long as key is on. When starting, that is bypassed by solenoid but needs to be there after starter quits. If that end is OK, then would measure the other end of resistor. If still OK but maybe slightly less than 12v with starter off, then verify the rest of ignition and spark is good.