Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

This thread shows a commercially made toolpackardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=626#forumpost626 available from some vendors. You can also make one by using 1/4 inch hex stock --may be available locally at an electronics supply or good hardware store as it is commonly used as standoffs-- and drilling a 3/16 hole down the middle. If no luck with purchase, there is a vendor for the material also cited in the thread. Radio shack may not be the best option any more as we are finding out but McMaster-Carr or MSC may be a good alternative.

There have been successful uses of small screwdrivers but if you choose that method, be careful as one slip can scratch quite well.

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Such an easy tool to make. I should've known. American made cars were much simpler to understand and didn't use metric measurements.

My 56 Packard has been through some interesting wire modifications that will take some time and effort to bring back to normal. I must take the dash apart to get to the jungle of wires and connections. Are there detailed instructions on how to remove and install the dash on my 56?

Not much of value in the service manual but in this instruction for dealers installing factory air kits there is a fairly decent procedure starting on page 3.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/55-56ACInstall.pdf

Since you won't be installing the AC, you can read through and decide whether you can eliminate some things. Not all removal they mention will be necessary. For example, removing the seat gives more room but not really necessary. There might be some minor difference in wire locations or colors as well between 55-6.

Do protect the steering column with padding and a second body is very helpful.

Thanks for the hot tips. I'm the lucky one with a great supporting wife. She not only helps me when needed, she's the calming factor when I invariably get frustrated.

With yours and my wife's influence, I'll have this beauty as good as new in no time.

Got the headlight switch tool and the switch is dangling inside the dash with the wires attached. The rheostat spring is disconnected on one end. That explains no dash panel or courtesy door lights. I need to repair or replace the switch.

It looks like the wires are permanently attached to their places on the light switch, except for the circuit breaker's red wire held on by a small nut. How do I get these wires loose without cutting them?

Bob

They should be attached with "bullet" connectors and should just pull loose. Take a look at my project blog as my headlight switch is similar and will show what I am talking about.

When you remove them, pull on the connector as much as possible, not the wire. However, if the wire does pull out then new connectors are available at most part stores. They come in different sizes and you need the .156 diameter.

Am more concerned about how you will repair the switch. The wire is actually riveted on and removing will be difficult and then also how to reinstall and keep the wire cemented in the groove in ceramic. It will probably be loose already or pull out when repairing. The wire can get quite warm and ordinary glue won't work. JB Weld might as long as it does not have a metal powder component that can conduct electrically. Haven't found electrical cement in small quantities.

The connections have to be tight with no play whatsoever on the contacts when pushing against them. Believe Kev suggested a brass screw on the electrical part and might work. File the head down so the surface is flat like the rivet. The wire cannot be soldered easily so anything giving a good connection will be a challenge. Also, the ceramic is very brittle so don't use force on anything.

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The headlight switch was exactly as you have described, difficult to repair and beyond my capabilities. I have purchased one from Max Merritt and have installed it. The install went without trouble once I got the switch located at it's furthest position, just under the dash, where I could easily separate the wires. It was a complete success with no severed connectors. All of my lights work an I am happy.

I found that your help, the exceptional exploded pictures, the service manual's electrical section and wire diagrams absolutely required for me to do this. THANK YOU ALL

Bob

Got the windshield wipers working after replacing most vacuum tubes and using air-tool lubricant directly into the main vacuum inlet. Only thing now is that the wipers won't park when the coordinator's vacuum hose is connected.

I filled the washer jar with water and got a little squirt onto the windshield, but that has stopped since. The only way the wipers will park is to disconnect the coordinator's tube. Other than that, they work great, any ideas would be of help.

I did get an electric w/w motor w/actuator from a '56 Chevy on e-bay. It only has one vacuum tube hook-up for the actuator. Is there a possible way to use this motor with my Packard's w/washer (maybe hook one of the vacuum lines from the manifold directly to the washer)?

Bob

Glad you got the headlight switch changed and all working.

I used this Chevy motor with co-ordinator without problem.

Since they do park with line disconnected, then things are assembled properly at the motor. If the water cannot all squirt, the co-ordinator will forever stay energized until the vacuum is gone or the water finally leaks so the pressure lowers enough to allow valve closing & disconnecting the vacuum supply to co-ord.

First thing I would do is start the unit and then when the trickle of water stops pull the large water hose off top of jar and see if any more water squirts out. If so and wipers stop with water line disconnected then nozzles or line most likely blocked. If not, then the washer valve diaphragms have probably dried and unit is in need of a rebuild. Kev wrote an excellent article on his rebuilding of one.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/view.article.php?c8/315

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