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ok. The valve guides were knurled and not replaced??? They appear to have been knurled.

look at the picture of the hardened seat......see that round thing in the center....they were replaced.

the part sticking up on the top is actually the guide and not part of the original head material. at least that is what he said. he said he cut down the original guid and then put in the new one, which was perfect amount sticking up to allow the positive seal to fit on.

and knurled...it looks like it and i noticed that from the topside, but maybe they came that way...idk...they seem to fit just fine, but i'll ask them about it cause maybe they are trying to pull one over on me.

Hank

There is nothing wrong with knurling guides. There ARE pros and cons about knurling but with positive valve seals they should be just fine.

I looked at the pic with the hardened valve seat and thus at the valve end of the guide. It looks a bit thin walled to me to be an insert guide. Looks like maybe the original cast hole was just champfered (good idea) or maybe overbored 1/8" or so???? Common practice of better head work.

BEFORE u ask about the knurl v replaced guide:

Place valves in the head. Get the assembly outside into DIRECT SUNLITE. Move each valve up and down and rotate valve a little bit. Look for any sunlite that may pass thru the seat. THere should be NO sunlite passing thru. Mite have to force the valve head against seat with 1 or 2 pounds of thumb pressure ok. Rotate valve checjing for sunlite. There mite be one or two points of rotation where a very tiny fraction of sunlite appears and that is ok if it is a very tiny amount.

There should be at least one point (of valve rotation)where NO sunlite is evident with just 1 or 2 pounds of thumb pressure. Key up valve at that point.

If there is any point where excessive sunlite passes thru then it will create less than desireable compression.

If it passes the sunlite test. Then key up the valves with springs for final assembly and LEAK TEST OVERNITE with kerozene. Some very slight moisture at the seat is ok but there should be NO puddles on the ground.

My heads were machined for insert guides. Cast iron guides left side and bronze (of a bronze type) in the rite side. IIRC the wall of the insert was a lot thicker than what appears in your pics. There were no ring or knurl looking marks in mine.
If i had it to do over agin i would most likely just knurl mine. But at the time i was leary of positive valve seals for this application and oil consumption on the Packard V8's is bad enuf as it is.

Knurled or insert guides notwithstanding, if the shop did a good job getting the seats to seal then i wouldn't argue with them.

Mite need to double check with your machine shop. Maybe SOME insert guides are knurled a short distance near the top.

Bottom line, if the seats seal good and the stem is a good fit then i wouldn't scoff a bit.

Would be nice to know for sure tho if they are knurled or insert for futuer reference.

BTW a Knurling tool is not expensive, about 40-50 bucks on ebay. Simple to use too. I have one here for 3/8 stems but have never used it.

i will look at the valve side and see if it is knurled. i don't remember seeing it knurled on the valve side, but i didn't look really close. they seem to fit really nice and move really well.

overall, i'm happy with the results, i think it looks great and will perform great too. fingers crossed. lol!

this is going to be one nice motor. if i just had the money for a dual carb setup.....lol...nah.....

Quote:

Henry, if you decide to go this way, you will be in competition with this one.

(o{I}o)

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agreed also.

now back to the blog.

finally got around to putting back together the sway bar. had to have some motivation is all.

it isn't perfect but it will do the job. my welds aren't the greatest, but ah well.....

it looks good enough to be under the car I'd say.

enjoy

Hank

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Opposite side done and finished product minus final paint.

set the rubber on fire on this side...oops LOL!! oh well got it out before it harmed anything too bad.

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