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Same car. It will run ok when it starts, but after about ten minutes, it sputters and dies. I've never had this issue. Carb is rebuilt, new gas tank, new fuel pump, clean filter, clean, fresh fuel. Points are set at .017. Has new points and condenser. Any ideas?

Since you've just been thru the entire fuel system, I'd suspect poor fuel delivery as a good candidate for your problem. Fuel pumps would much rather suck air than pull gasoline 15 feet or so from the rear tank, so I'd inspect every connection between the pump and the tank for a loose connection, and also check the gasket at the pump sediment bowl if so equipped. Don't know what "same car" means so can't be more specific.

If its not fuel, I'd suspect a failing ignition coil; these generally only act up when they get hot. Just go buy a universal ignition coil and wire it up temporarily and recheck.

The coil is brand new. The fuel pump is in the tank, so it can't draw air. It gets plenty of fuel, and the pressure is correct (about 4 lbs). The car is a 1941 Packard 120 ( I mistakenly said it was a 1940 in my earlier thread).

What do you know about the fuel tank? Have you pulled the sending unit and looked inside?

You may want to test the condensor, it is possible that you got a bad one even though it's a new one. Some parts like condensors, and coils make work perfect when cold, but as they warm up they might start acting weird.

You guys are gonna hate me. The tank is new, so i know there aren't any issues there. As for the condensor, we have used three different condensers on it, so i am quite positive thats not it. That was my first inclination, check the points and condensor. This is why i said ive never had this issue. I have tried everything I could think of. I even played with the climatic control, but that didnt help it either. i'm stumped.

Could you check the level of fuel in the carb bowl after it conks to see if there is indeed a fuel delivery problem?
One thing I learned about fuel pumps is that they can warp under heat and lose prime, even with a new diaphragm. If you take apart the two halves of the pump you may see that the areas around the threaded (and thru) holes are distorted (raised upward) from over-torquing by previous mechanics/owners. You can heat up the housings and bend them back into relative flatness then flat-file the mating surfaces to the point where the two halves are reasonably flat to each other, when you hold the two halves together without the diaphragm and sight through them you can't see a lot of light coming through. Assemble the pump again, keeping in mind you don't want to over torque the fasteners, just draw them up evenly in a cross-torquing pattern. I have fixed "conkers" that way. Having a glass bowl/ceramic element fuel filter near the carb is a good indicator of whether there is fuel making it that far at a given moment.

Well, this car has an electric fuel pump in the tank. That was how they came. The fuel pump is new, however. As far as fuel delivery, everything seems to be in tip top shae. No leaks, always has fuel in the bowl/filter. One thing I DID notice, however, was that at any given time there is only about a 1/4 inch of fuel in the carburetor bowl. Is this correct, or should it have more?

How do you know the fuel level in the bowl with disassembly of the carb unless it's a Holley. A quarter inch of fuel is very low so perhaps a readjustment of the float is in order.

It is a Carter carb, and you can remove the top portion while it is still on the car. When i remove the top, the fuel level is very low. Ive tried adjusting the float, but then it leaks everywhere.