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Door Lock
#1
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

Hans
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Would look really extraordinary in bare metal, Kev. Take a chance, you can always change back to a conventional paint job....

I need some advice,guys! The door locking mechanism on the driver's door is malfunctioning which means that I can open the door from the outsde by just pulling the outer door handle. Not really safe I guess...

Now trying to remove the mechanism from the inside of the door. Two major problems: one is the outer door handle retainer clip, that will not move. I think hard trying will ultimately destroy the clip and what then? I read that replacements are difficult to obtain and expensive. Everything is now soaked in penetrating oil, let's hope for the best. Problem number two is the window channel that runs just in front of the mechanism. This means that the locking mechanism can't be pushed into the door. I can't determine how it is fixed to the door. It looks like welded in place, but this would mean you can't disassemble it to get at the locking mechanism. Not true is it?

BTW, any idea what could be wrong with the lock? As far as I can see the rotor that should turn in one direction upon closing the door now suddenly turns in both directions and lacks the blocking function with the door shut. It only should do so when the knob on the outer handle or the inner handle are operated. The rotor also sounds different from the other ones, that produce a firm clicking noise when being turned by hand.
Any suggestions? Is there a broken or missing spring involved?

Posted on: 2011/4/4 15:09
All the best from Holland!
Hans

Clipper Deluxe Touring sedan 1954
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Re: Door Lock
#2
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HH56
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Kev may want to move your door post to it's own heading so it doesn't get lost in his blog and more people can see it.

Does the actual outside button push in and release OK? There s a collar on the shaft of that mechanism which pushes against a lever going to the actual latch mechanism. When the button is pushed, it pushes A & Lifts B which releases a catch on a toothed wheel at C inside the latch which lets the rotary part turn--same as when the inside handle is pulled only via a different lever D. E rotates via key and F pushes and are the locking pieces. Moving the long piece with two U shapes down prevent the lever from moving at D. If the wheel is turning and the button or inside handle is not stuck in the release position, it sounds as if the coiled spring pushing against lever or possibly the pawl is broken. The latch is held onto the door by some screws on the door jamb. Once the inner panel is removed, mounting screws out and rods for inner door handle and lock released, the latch should push into the door and come out. It may need a bit of twisting. If the channel is in the way, there should be a guide and mount at the very bottom screwed to the door. The screw may be hidden inside the channel or on a bracket at 90 degrees to the channel. That can be loosened and channel should be able to be moved slightly to let things clear.

Once the oil has had a chance to work, if you still need the outside handle off, then with the window trim molding and inner panel removed you can push it from inside the door. There is a stop at the center of window bottom which keeps window from going lower. Remove that and SLIGHTLY lower window further just so the top of glass is below the inner panel lip for protection. Get a long heavy screwdriver or something similar and a hammer and lightly tap on the front of the retainer to push it out the door jamb from the front. It won't be a straight shot but you can get enough of an angle to push it out. It will probably be rusted tight and may be damaged anyway but try and be careful and maybe get lucky.

Your lock is similar in working to this from packards1's ebay site but as this is for another model and I think passenger side, some details may be a bit different or a mirror image.

Attach file:



jpg  (20.59 KB)
209_4d9a3f19bff6e.jpg 401X350 px

Posted on: 2011/4/4 15:58
Howard
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Re: Door Lock
#3
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

Hans
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Thanks Howard for your trouble and good picture. At least now I can see how everything looks from the inside. From what I see and hear from the lock that coil spring most probably has gone loose or maybe is broken. The funny thing is that the problem occurred after oiling the mechanism...

Once I have the door latch freed from the door I should be able to repair it, any guesses on where to get a good spring?

Posted on: 2011/4/5 0:53
All the best from Holland!
Hans

Clipper Deluxe Touring sedan 1954
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Re: Door Lock
#4
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BigKev
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Topic split from my project blog, and moved here. thx

Posted on: 2011/4/5 1:09
-BigKev


1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan -> Registry | Project Blog

1937 Packard 115-C Convertible Coupe -> Registry | Project Blog
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Re: Door Lock
#5
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Just can't stay away

Hans
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Well, managed to get the door lock out. Removing the door handle slide clip proved to be a true work of patience. After soaking the clip in penetrating oil for several times over two days I loosened the lower sliding rail slightly with a screwdriver to give the clip more room. Then after hammering forth and back it came out, almost undamaged, only one spring tongue was broken off. I never found it back so it might as well be possible it was missing before I started.
Then the window channel: no hidden screw here, just by coincidence i discoverd that it can be pushed upward to release two sliding clips.

The door lock itself was similar in construction to the one in Howard's picture, although there are some differences in the Clipper 1954 lock. The spring I suspected to be broken was OK. Reason for the ratchet not blocking after closing the door was that at point C (Howard's picture) almost half the thickness of the pawl was chewed away by the ratchet which was rather loose on its shaft. Result: no blocking action on the ratchet and a non-locking rotor on the outside of the lock. My lubrication action made the problem worse, because the parts were now able to slide out of their right course even easier.

The problem was quickly rectified by my neighbour who took it to his work where the missing material was TIG welded in situ, that is without dismantling the lock. Talking about precision welding...
The ratchet wheel received a weld to correct the pay on its shaft.

Tonight I put everything back together again, after ample lubricating the turning and moving points and giving the inside of the door a Tectyl treatment to stop the rust and preserve the metal. The door opens and closes as a dream! Tomorrow the inside door panel and the window trim go back on and Da Wolfman is ready for the road again.

Posted on: 2011/4/6 15:49
All the best from Holland!
Hans

Clipper Deluxe Touring sedan 1954
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Re: Door Lock
#6
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HH56
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Congratulations. Haven't run across that particular problem but after almost 60 years, I guess we can't fault a little wear here and there. Kinda makes you wonder though how many are out there like that and just waiting for a sharp corner to let go on.

Posted on: 2011/4/6 16:02
Howard
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