Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Is there a plate or spec sheet available for the 56 series gas tank. I haven't one in the repair or parts manuals.

If by "plate" you mean an engineering drawing or something similar, I've never seen one and if one did survive, the Studebaker Museum would be a good place to start searching.

Owen, Thanks, I"ll give it a try. I intend to do the Por-15 tank cleaning/coating process myself, since there are not any shops (radiator or otherwise)around here that does gas tank work and the pick up tube extends from the front (side near bott.) to about the middle of the tank where it makes a goose neck with the ends only fractions (1/8"?) above the bottom. It is going to be tough to prevent plugging the tube while coating and I sure don't want to have to cut the tank.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=911&start=20

Check out the above thread about a 55-57 Chevy tank retro fitted to a 56 Packard. Might be a better and cheaper and easier fix for a rusty tank than the Por-15.

Thanks, I did read that post earlier and while the price seems right, and at first read it sounds like a great fix. But the farther I read the more it sounds like a pretty tough retro. job. The Packard sender uses a locking ring for the sender and the cheebie bolts on, and in a different location on the tank, in front rather than the top. That probably means my sender won't work correctly. And I would have to extend my fuel line. Also the cheebie has no vent line and apparently the frame had to be notched out. Ouch!
But mainly I am trying to maintain the car as original as reasonably possible as the car now seems to be absolutely original, mechanically. However, I did have to change all four brake cylinders with repro's from NAPA, as I couldn't free up the cups.

What size are the NAPA wheel cylinders????? I assume your Pat has poweer brakes???

"Also the cheebie has no vent line and apparently the frame had to be notched out. Ouch"

Are u sure about the vent line????? Some tanks have the vent incorporated IN the filler neck. I've not looked at the 55 Chevy tank so i'm not sure.

Yes, i don't like the frame notching idea either. But maybe a better work around is possible. I don't know.

The brake (wheel) cylinders are 1 1/8" front and 1" rear, I don;t recall the manufacturer, I'm sure I kept the receipt and I'll look at the cylinders to see what info is on them.
The power unit is the Bendix Tredle vac, I had it rebuilt by Kanter Auto, in Boonton, N.J., which I had to send back because they sent a different unit than the one I sent them after I had specifically requested the same unit back. I am still having a problem with the rebuilt unit from Kanter.

Pardon me for my cross examination, but are u SURE they are 1-1/8" and 1" wheel cylinders that NAPA sold you????

I know that the manual indicates those sizes but i'm just trying to verify exactly what napa sells. There is a reason behind all of this.

WHAT kind of problems are u having with the rebuilt T'Vac unit???

I haven't had a chance to go through my receipts for the wheel (brake) cylinders but I will (hopefully) be able to shortly. I may have got them from Kanter and not NAPA but I'll verify. The mechanic that was working on the car when I purchased it from the previous owner had bought new brake cylinders from Auto zone or advance auto and they were the right size 1 1/8th for the front and 1" for the rear. They looked identical to the packard cylinders (at first look) but when we tried to install then they would not bolt up correctly. After closer inspection there was a sort of slight bulge on the back casting that is not on the packard cylinders.

The problem with the tredle vac is an extremely hard pedal. I believe it is vacuum related and intend to make that my next task. The brakes work and stop the car (I haven't left the driveway)but without the booster working it is not very safe. If the vacuum checks out okay, I suppose the next thing would be the compensator port.