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We started drilling out the un-removable screws in the dashboard. Looking at the small nest of difficult to get at and soldered wires underneath, along with the cables and instruments, i'm wondering.... Any suggestions hints or tips that anyone could pass along would be much appreciated. Of course we are tagging and labeling everything. But still the dash does not seem to budge as we find more hidden screws.

Finally, the dashboard is out along with all wires and controls
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Today I worked on the emergancy brake lever, removed dimmer switch after a fight with the rusty screws and the steering shaft and pedal boot, and also removed the windshield glass and the rear glass as well. Of course the rubber seals were dry rotted and needed to by cut out.
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Here is a common problem on a lot of older cars(sedans)
The B pillar/lock pillar cracks from all the stress and vibration of the suicide doors closing along with the fact that they were not reinforced very well in the old days. Both sides are cracked, although someone tried to repair the passenger side some time in years past. This will need to be repaired and the shell will need to be braced before we lift the body off the chassis.
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So do you recommend not lifting the body off the chassis with the doors on? My plan was to leave the doors in to stabilize the body. (Granted, I am not doing major body work at this time because I'm moving in 3 months).

Generally any auto door is not going to support an opening from moving at all, as they are only connected to the body at the hinge points and at the latch. The rest of it will have a small gap around it anyway and can move and tighten that gap up and possibly cause damage. They can possibly keep the openings from moving/shifting a lot if something drastically went wrong, but in my opinion they only make extra weight, and the bracing that will be tack welded in will keep everything solid. Honestly, there shouldn't be any moving or shifting of any openings when we lift the body off, but I'd rather be safe than sorry and tack weld a few braces in.
These cars were carried and moved around by overhead cranes at the factory way back when as I understand, by using strapping and putting it through the door openings and carried by the roof. I just feel more comfortable with the bracing since the car is or 70 years old and I'm sure some flexing has accured in the body over that period of time, just as the B-pillars have had and weakened and cracked.

Her it is all welded and solid again

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I had to fabricate a steering wheel puller because all my pullers weren't wide or long enough to fit around the hub of the wheel. I split two 1-1/2 inch washers to fit around the steering shaft tube and welded them back together so they would put even pressure on the old and delicate part. It worked great!

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There are universal body-bracking kits available on the market to hold a body in shape when removing/installing. Various mounting plates, threaded heavy steel rods, turnbuckles, etc. Use is absolutely essential with a convertible, and recommended for all others. Here's a photo of a 1936 Twelve convertible body drop, pictures don't show the full extent of the bracing, it was very considerable. The bracing was of course done before the body was removed.

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