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Well more progress after dinner. First the rear filler panel was installed. Then the license plate bracket and plate was installed, and finally the bumper. Electrical reconnected as needed.

The I decided to move on to replacing the rear window that was cracked from a BB shot at some point before the car came in my possession.

Figured this was good time to do it since the door panels are off the car, and I already have a set of original replacement rear windows with the lower channels already attached.

So first you remove the bottom window stop. This will allow the window roll down further that normal and make it easier to reach where the regulator attaches to the lower window channel.

You can reach behind with cotter-pin removal tool and remove the horse-shoe spin, and washers. Then you can pull the regulator arm toward you and slip the pin of out the channel.

The top/side door channel (opposite of the vent window) then is pulled out and up. If it wont come out of the inside of the door, a little pb blaster may be needed were it clips in the door. There is a hidden tab at the top right where the channel enter the door cavity, and another one at the very bottom of the channel. I had to use a short flat bladed screwdriver to get the lower clip to release, and then I was able to put the channel up and out past the glass.

Next the window is lowered as far as it will go by hand past the regulator, and the then you need to rotate it toward the vent window. Once rotated 90 degrees, you can then slip in up and out of the window opening. The installation is the reverse.

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A little more progress tonight, removed the drive shaft and inspect the rear u-joint and front ball & trunion joint. All the joint perfect, no scoring. So I repacked the joints and reinstalled. One think I noticed that was different than the Service Manual was the fact the U-Joint cap clips were on the inside of the joint as opposed to the outside which is shown in the manual. I just need to run some grease through the fitting on the rear joint to finish everything up. Also I need to keep an eye on the retainer clips as I am not happy about how loose they feel compared to how hard they were coming off. So I may just need to see if I can find replacements for them.

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Funny how you will wake up at 1:00 a.m. and think "I have those clips somewhere!" Then wake back up at 4:00 a.m. and decide "yes, those are in one of the I'll never use these but can't throw out drawers". So, out to the garage and there they are.

Take your calipers and measure the width of the clip, the groove it fits in, and the diameter of the groove it fits in on the cup. I am almost certain these will work. These are new ones.

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Can't say I've ever seen a rear universal like that with a grease fitting on the backside of one of the cups. Though perhaps not too significant, you'd think it would create an imbalance unless the construction of the opposing cup was somehow modified to compensate.

Normally the grease fitting is on the interior at the intersection of the 4 posts.

PS - if you don't get new rear u-joint retaining clips elsewhere, the Minnesota Packards region of PAC offers them for the 51-54 models at $10/set.

Kev - in addition to the needle bearings, balls and pin, the other critical place to examine a ball & trunnion joint for wear are the interior channels of the housing. Fortunately NOS housings for the junior models with Ultramatic are still available, but those for the seniors are pretty much extinct and have been so for some time.

You are observant Dave. That grease fitting looks like a home-did modification to me.

The rear ujoint with grease fitting is a bit odd for autmotive applications. It could be an Ag application. Usualy, tho not necessarily, Ag applications are not suitable for automotive longevity or strength requirements.

I would n't worry about it tho. IF imbalance is an issue remove the grease fitting and install a plug.

As for the retainer clips look at them real close. They most likely have a burr on them from where they punched in production. Try installing the clips upside down from how u have them installed now. Or try to spring them a little to make them fit tighter.

I assume that u did not press any cups out of any yokes??? If u did and then pressed the cups back into the yoke then strike the eye of the yoke with a hammer 3 or 4 sharp blows WITH CLIPS INSTALLED.

edit: i went back and looked at the pic. Apparently they had to be pressed out of the pinion yoke on the axle???? Try striking the yoke a few times with a hammer to 'set' tthe cups.

Inspect the rubber boot real close for any tears or holes.

Thanks for all the replies Gents.

Dave, I did check the internal walls of the front housing, everything was smooth. I remember that the previous over said he had done some transmission work back in 1986 shortly before the car went off the grid, so I think everything may have gotten serviced at that time. Everything was good looking, just the grease was past it's prime (25 years or so). Are the reproduction clips the "U" style ones with the bend over tabs like in this part plate?





Also I haven't noticed any driveline vibration from the odd fitting placement. So who knows.

The problem with the existing clips is that they have kind of lost their spring. I bend them a little bit more close, but they they bend back on installation. They are holding currently, but just not snapping firmly into place like I would expect them to. I would rather replace them and have peace of mind, then to worry about dropping a driveshaft while out motoring somewhere.

Jim, I will pull a cap off later and get those measurements for you. Thanks!

Do you remember how much type F and how much snake oil you
Used in the trans fill? I have a 52 (200) the fill is the same as where the dipstick is?
Thanks! Jeremy