Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Cars were built with pipe thread fittings going into carbs and fuel pumps for 60+ years and during most of those years teflon tape had not yet been invented. How in the world did those cars ever function?? After it was invented the factories never used it, how did those cars run?? Did they use sealer on the pipe threads at the factory. NO!

When you tighten a (tapered) pipe thread it has a wedging action that creates the seal. A hard sttel line with a flare going into a soft brass fitting slightly deforms the brass seat to create a leakproof seal. Brake lines operate at cose to 1000 psi, fule lines at 5 psi. If brake lines routinely leaked we would have crashes all the time. A properly assembled fuel line will not leak, a distorted or damaged fitting is easy to replace and makes for a permanent, safe and leak free repair. If you do patchwork repairs on a fuel system, make sure to carry marshmallows with you on the road.

John H, it sounds like it might be your float. A simple way to test the float is t to put it in the freezer, microwave some water to near boiling, and dunk the float in.the water. If you see bubbles, the float has a leak. The cold air inside the float heats up in the water and will leave a telltale stream of bubbles if it leaks out of the sealed float.

Mite be a problem with that process. The sudden temperature change could split the float. Best way to test for a leaking float is to simply remove the float and shake it to see if there is any gas in it. OR just soak the float in some gas for a day or two if it from a long term dry carb.

Quote:

I got the procedure from the service manual for the Carter WA-1. That being said, it was for a new-ish carb, not one that is eligible for Medicare!

When I tried it, I did apply a little common sense. I put my float in the freezer for about 5 minutes, got the water temp up to 100 or so (not near boiling like the manual said, and like I realize I said before), and dunked it in.

I believe your methods would work as well.

So far I have found my Carburator to be the biggest part of the problem. My car is a 1936 120B with the Stromberg EE-14 carb. The pump has the original spring in it and also I installed a rubber boot that came with the rebuild kit I believe the kit was for a single action pump and not for mine (I havde a double action pump). I got a rebuilt carb from Kanter and had it installed but the only problem is that it didn't have the float screw installed. Kanter has had some problems with their previous rebuilder and no longer use them. They are in the process now of rebuilding my original core with the new rebuilding vendor. I hope this cures my problem summer is too short here in upstate New York.