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These guys. Backwards Unlimited.

Be sure to give them a sample of the color you want.

site.backwardsunlimited.com/About.html

Joe

WINDOWS: Joes method of riveting the weatherstrip lining of the front window channel.

UPHOLSTERY SHOP: Just photos. Most beautiful work.

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RUNNING BOARD: What it looks like bare naked after burning off all the rubber and soaking in the rust tank, the Oregon way.

UPHOLSTERY: Progress on front seat cushion.

WOOD TOP RECEPTACLE: It took assistance from Theron and Shelby from Beaverton Auto Upholstery, plus Gary Martin, Martin Model & Pattern, who crafted the box,martinmodel.com/, my son John, and myself to coax the box in. We started with 3 parts, the box proper and the two arms that jut forward to where the top brackets mount.

Steve Macleay, BAU, suggested SparVar, marine varnish, used on their boat projects. Once varnished, the work on the top can commerce next week.

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Progress on a few fronts.

WINDOWS: The question about the rubber dust seal on the side windows is answered. Steele Rubber's Side Window Weatherstrip 70-0241-57 double lip weatherseal is used for 1/4" glass in the metal bottom channel carrier. MS Glass, a couple doors away from the Beaverton Auto Upholstery, will install it. I missed it because their is already such a variety of window channel (convt top frame rails have one type, front of the front side window another, and one that slips inside the stainless window frames) in a convertible sedan I thought I had them all.

The 1940 FRONT WINDOW MECHANISM regulator scissor action was also solved, in theory at least, with a plastic bushing and nylon washer. More on the thread for that topic.

WINDSHIELD: MS Glass will also install the windshield at the upholstery shop while the Duchess is in there this week. It has new rubber and rechromed trim. They are saying they need the windshield moulding, so I am attempting to finish the paint and wood grain on that this weekend.

INTERIOR DOOR MOULDING: These have been stripped, primed with direct to metal primer, sanded, filled, sanded, and primed again last night. They will be sanded with 400 this morning and sprayed with Dupont Colorbase and Colorbase maker, 1 to 1. Sanded again and painted again. Then I get to try woodgraining on the straight strips. It looks so easy in the video! We'll see.

RUNNING BOARD TOP MOULDING AND SIDE MOULDING. The SIDE moulding pieces from Packard Motor Car Co were shipped in plastic pipe and wrapped in clear plastic. I haven't unwrapped them yet.

I was missing one of the TOP moulding strips, but of course, you can't buy what you need, or just the CLIPS from Steele. Thankful that they make it, but policy like that says something culturally about who they cater to, and I'm just a guy who wants to get my old family car restored and, unfortunately, I'm not filthy rich. But one finds a way. Jim, fellow 1803 1377 owner, was missing one side and had to bite the bullet and buy the complete set for $700 new and sold left overs to his long, long time friend Dan and I bought Dan's left overs. I've been cleaning those up and stainless steel is great that way. I only needed the 11" piece so I have a bunch left over and will sell for $10 a foot, no minimum in protest, plus shipping. Clean ones in photo are below the Mason-Dixon Line.

The side moulding CLIPS, not being able to buy those without shelling out $700, is a problem. I have most of my original ones, but with new rubber, Jim's suggestion and Vaughn's too was to do what they did, grind the heads of a hundred small machine screws until they slip into the moulding retainer lips. I'm going to try something similar. 50# nails threaded 4-40, washers and nuts. The reason for screws in either case is to help hold down the new rubber matting.

Son John replaced the broken bolt on the running board by slitting the retainer, peeling it back, removing the broken bolt, grinding the head of the new bolt and tacking it, then closing and welding the retainer up. Jim suggested sanding the back side of the matting before we apply it to help it adhere. The running board is full of holes. I'm not sure we can get things lined up exactly as they were. I held back one board to use as a visual guide for placing the new matting. I'm thinking we would just drill more holes after it's on for replacing the top moulding strips.

NOTES ON MY WINDSHIELD: I'm sure it's happened to you. It did to me for years. If you're interested in selling this portable junk yard, let me know. I saved several. I was looking through my files and found this one left on my car in 1960-something when I was attending the University of San Francisco. Just for the heck of it I googled this name, picturing that only a little old lady could have a name like that, and would long gone by now. Lo, a very interesting life story unfolded online, of Japanese internment camps and real estate success with her husband in Utah, and yes, schooling in San Francisco. I sent off an email. More later.

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Since I've changed over to 1941-42 side moldings for my running boards, I've got a few extra original clips from the 1940. I should have enough for both sides, but I can't find half of them.
However, your solution sounds just as good, if not better.

I think I'm fine, West. Appreciate the offer. You mentioned RB side moulding. Those I got from Packard Motor Car and they came with clips. The TOP moulding strips are the ones I was looking for. They are avail from Steele if you buy the $700 package, as mentioned, and I'll probably mention it again sometime, cuz it kind of frosts me. But the combination of existing clips and the nail screws I'll make should work.

I'm guessing you just glue it down as close to the original position as you can and then drill new holes for the clip/screws from the top rather than coming up from the bottom using the existing hole and coming through the middle of a rubber pillow. We could possibly drill a few positioning holes in the rubber and line them up with original holes using an awl before the contact cement locks up.

Finished sanding and putting the basecoat on the window/door moulding as Fathers Day wishes roll in from various and sundry locations.

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This is the paragraph where you mentioned the side molding clips.

Thanks, West, I screwed up. I meant the TOP moulding clips.

Moulding has basecoat now.

Heading down to son John's. See if we can resolve pin issue and pickup the repaired running board and locking door handle extension.

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Is there any end to this? I ask. I know the answer and I prefer this alternative. Still it's frustrating, not having the knowledge on some issues.

REAR DOORS: John replaced the gears where the teeth were worn off in the rear side window regulators. The replacements came from a different make of car, but I don't know what. Now I'm trying to find the square rod in order to crank it. And I found the nicely painted black piece which looked like it interfaced with the rusty regulator but doesn't line up with anything on the door.

If the black one didn't come from the car, why do I have it? And why did I clean it up?

WINDOW MOULDING:Got it painted, but not wood-grained. And now I think I will paint it again after a little more filling and sanding. Supposedly required to install the windshield so it must be done soon.

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I'd be very, very surprised if the molding is needed to install the windshield. That confuses me. I'm pretty sure it's only cosmetic.
I've been wrong before, though, so don't take it as gospel.