Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Also, whether you do the full exchange or have it rebuilt, it's usually a good idea to either hold on to the old pump to compare with new before returning the core or take good notes or pictures and make sure to remove any brass fittings threaded into the inlet and outlet ports before sending anywhere. Most pumps only have threaded holes in the casting and come without any special fittings that may be needed to connect the hoses. You may get a replacement pump that will fit and work but may not look or have the ports in exactly the same location so a reference as to how hoses need to go is helpful as well.

I don't know about Gould, but when sending to a rebuilder, you may get your own original pump back as it was sent with fittings intact or for some reason, you may not. Some of the older fittings are almost impossible to find now so a good reason to keep them close.

Here's the reason you mkay not get back the pump you sent in.It is most efficient to rebuliding in batches rather than one at a time. When a pump is received it is identified, as sometimes the incorrect pump is on a car, for example a '54 pump will bolt on and work fine on a '38, only the vacuum connecitons will have to be rubber wiper hose rather than threaded.

We ID the pump, go to the shelf with that part number, compare as a double check and send out sometimes the same day. If we rebuilt it on a single basis it wopudl take longer as ther is a line of pumps waiting to be done and the goal is the customer wants his car on the road ASAP. Filling that need is what we are here for.

Most of the fuel/waterpumps and carbs we sell, hundreds a month for all makes, are sent out upon order and a refundable core charge is added. Thus a customer can get the rebuilt unit within days (overnight shipping??) instead of delaing it by shipping the item in, going through receiving and ID etc. That can cut a week+ out of the process.

If a customer insists on their unit, it can take 3-4 weeks sometimes. To each his own.

What makes me wonder is a customer who gets a pump etc and it is "wrong", doesn't match what is on the car. The send back the pump with their old one from say a 38 Buick and berate us for our eror saying they want to keep their car original. Well, they had a 52 pump on their car so we call them. Again we are "wrong" as they say the man they bought the car fom in 1958 told them everything is original. If you think this business is a picnic, come work in our customer service dept for a day.

Happy motoring, I hope I have helped you understand the reason for "for some reason", and yes we do make real mistakes too

Mr Kanter What and how do I contact you about getting a Fuel pump for my 38? I would like to get the same type so as not to have to play around with the replacement. Thanks Dale

Thanks for the insight Fred. I knew there was a lot involved with the larger companies and don't know if Gould does it on that scale or not. They're the ones I was referring to since O_D had mentioned them. Was thinking more like a damaged casting would keep the original.

I should have kept my original statement. It was "for any number of reasons, you may not get--" but trying to cut words, went back and edited to "for some reason".

I am attempting to remove the fuel pump from the 38 and found a wire running through the two bolts that hold on the pump on to the block, is that normal. And it has been a bear to get a wrench into the area to unbolt the pump.WOW. if all goes will I shall order a pump from Mr Kanter in the AM. I would weather fight a drunken sailor then try this again. LOL

The wire is safety wire to keep the bolts from loosening and falling out. Some engines had it, some not. Just cut it and replace with new if you want when you install the new pump. There may be a bit of spring load on the pump depending on where the eccentric is. Some pumps can have the arm wind up on either side of eccentric (say 55-6 with Carter pumps) and can be damaged if installed wrong. I don't think that one can but just take note of where the arm is when you remove the pump.

If the safety wire is still thare after 70+ years eithre the pump is original or very competent mechanics have cared for her. Replace with a new wire when reinstalling.

You are probably standing on your head tryig to remove the bolts. Here's the easy way, how Packard probably intended it to be done, also valve adjustments. Remove RF wheel, puton jack stand, remove inner fender panel an you can see everything in Cinemascope.

WQhile you're at it, free up the heat riser valve on the manifold if it does not move freely. Use penetrating oil or oil mixed with graphite.

Thanks you, you guys have renewed my self confidence, with this project.Dale

I am attempting to do some pre running work on the 38 1601D and I am unable to find the oil filter that will work. The one on her now is a Wix 51035 and it is obsolete. The filter is a complete unit and dose not have a cartridge. Does any one have any idea of what other filter or a cross reff I can use to get a new canister for the filter Thanks ps the new fuel pump goes on tonight!!