Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Hi all especially Craig. I would agree to remove as little as possible when removing the sump however I was unable to get to the front two sump bolts from the rear of the cross member and removed the lower bell housing as I considered that it would be easier to get the sump off and past the oil pump which hangs down a loong way. I didn't remove a manifold, just the down pipe which bolts to the manifold. Well done to anyone who can remove and replace the sump without removing these items. Best regards Peter Toet

Yes, the FRONT 2 or 3 bolts of the oil pan are very difficult to remove. I use a 1/4 inch drive socket set and various extensions/u-joints etc. I've removed oil pans on 3hree different Packards (56's) and have always had to remove lower bellhousing half.

The left exhaust pipe i have always had to remove completely too. However i can imagine that perhaps on some cars in left exh pipe was fabricated by a muffler shop in some way that it mite only need to be disconnected and pushed over out of the way.

I have also had problems removing lower bell housing half to the extent that it fit extremely tite on the dowels and had to use a slidehammer to get it off.

If it wasn't for the left exhaust pipe the job would be fairly ez. A tite bellhousing adds to difficulty and the very front oil pan bolts add more aggrevation to it.

Several times I have been tempted to drill a large enough hole completely thru the front crossmember so that I could just put a socket on the end of an extension and go straight up to remove those F%$#^&g bolts at the front of the oil pan. I may yet do that.

On my '54 I have to lift the front of the motor off of it's mounts to reach those front pan bolts.

It sounds like the olds pump is the answer. Our local go to mechanic currently has some personal issues that are consuming much of his time. Hopefully they will be resolved son.

It is much simpler when you come in with the necessary parts, so precisely what do I need? Money is as always an issue. I need to be frugal; I do not want to be chintzy.

What is my shopping list?

I assume a pan gasket from Grumpy Fred or Friendly Max. Anything else while I'm there?

What precisely from Jack? HV pump and what? Does the kit include the pump?

Hi patgreen, I would suggest that you get
. the Olds V8 conversion kit
. Olds V8 high volume pump and pick-up
. Packard Second design cam retainer and spacer( purchase whilst available and for restoration installation when you are killed at 125 years old at the hand of a jealous lover -sorry , that's just on my bucket list)
. Neporene rear seal...Get them whilst they are available.

Other than that, you will need to cut a new seal for the adapter plate to Packard oil outlet and ascertain if you are going to replace the sump and end gaskets. Either way you require patience in the installation as there is SFA room to move and preserve any sealant which you may apply.

You can buy the Olds oil pump from any parts store and you might get it cheaper locally. The one you want is the "HV" one for the Olds 455 engine. As Keith said it has a bearing in the bottom plate for the drive gear. The pickup bolts on and I would use blue loctite on the bolts.

For your own edification, take off the bottom plate and look at the gears in both the Olds pump and the Packard pump when you get it off. You will be astonished at the difference. As I said, there is no comparison.

Craig

Jack, sent you a pm today!

Took her out today to see if the problem had cured itself. You know the answer to that.

Put a container of STP in and waited for the miracle. Thusfar it has not arrived.

How come when I start the car cold, no lifter noise, but once warmed up it lingers on and on?

Quote:

Because your oil delivery system is "on the margin." When cold, the oil is thicker and when hot, it's thinner. You need a higher volume oil pump.

Craig

I suggest you try an easier fix. New (current production ) lifters. Often works, anyway can't hurt. HIgh volume oil pumops are for high performance/racing applications with loose bearing tolerances. Not needed on a 3500 rpm high precision Packard