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I threw in the picture of the switch to help locate the terminals while you are wedged under the dash. The bulb on switch lights when the headlight switch is in the parking light position only. I guess they figured the courtesy lights were not enough light to help find the switch at night.

The BAT and OIL light gets one side of their power via a short wire between bulbs and the GA terminal. Ultimately from battery via AM input on ign switch and main feed which connects at starter solenoid terminal. The other side of OIL gets ground thru the sender and lights if no pressure. The BAT light connects to voltage regulator "A" terminal which goes to generator "A" and then via the armature and field windings to ground. As long as the generator is not putting voltage out, the light will be on but as soon as the generator starts putting out voltage, it will match or exceed the battery voltage and with no voltage difference across the bulb, go out. As long as the new loom is correct, to have it on with the key off means either the ign switch is bad or one of the other wires connected to that same GA post is getting a voltage from somewhere. Is the OIL light on or maybe burned out? If properly wired, it should also be lit if ign switch is bad or something in that area shorted. Since GA and AM are close together, with bulky wire, it is even possible the ign switch terminals are shorted with a wire touching another terminal--

heya thank you ,Im going to have to copy that answer down and go snoopin under the dash ,thanks for the helpfull pic too! Im going to order a starter switch ,charge up the battery and grab a flashlight for some squeeze my fat frame under the dash gymnastics ! by the way hey, do all of the big straight 8's have a problem with hot starts ?after the engines warmed yp and stopped she doesnt like to go again ,maybe the batterys old and not giving me good hot spark ,I hear those 6 volt batteries just dont have the same life and durability as the 12's

When hot, does it not crank at all, or just very slowly or normal speed but not start.

The biggest problem with 6volt is dirty connections or too small of battery cables if those have been replaced with modern. If the battery is weak, cables dirty or too small, or starter dragging and pulling a lot of current, the battery may not be able to give enough voltage to fire the coil. Today's gas also seems to have a tendency to "boil" easily so there may be some flooding as well if the carb is needing attention.

The wiring diagram for the car is on site if you need it.

I charged up the battery reconnected the ground to it and the battery light isnt on anymore ! intermittant problem .perhaps the switch .I looked under the dash ,no frayed wires or loose nuts .

Changing the switch will be a fun project .BUT how does it come out ?
theres a chrome eschutchen on the dash on the outside ,and 4 tabs on the front of the switch that faces the inside of the dash.
It looks like one loosens the switch then drops it down to be able to get at all of the conections . do you pry off the escutchen? twist the switch inside ?

when hot it turns over at what I guess is an ok rpm , that 6v rr rrr rrr rrrr having a good charge on the battery definatly helps everything
,I was wondering if the high alcohol fuel evaporates in the bowl sitting on the warm intake manifold and Its just not turning fast enough at starter rpm to get gas pumped up into the carb
If she is really stubborn Ill pull the aircleaner and spray start spray into the carb and it starts up and fills the glass filter bowl I installed before the carb.
The heat shield is installed between the pump and the intake ,
Do folks wrap the fuel ine to insulate it?
I have the proper gage battery wires , and have a rebuilt gennerator ,have gone through about 5 starter motors the windings come apart or theu jam up

We'll hope it stays working but if needed, to remove the switch: from under the dash, push it toward dash to compress the wavy spring. When spring compressed, turn the bezel 1/4 turn CCW to line the narrow slots on bezel with the narrow part of switch. It should just slide out.

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thank you very Much for the ignition switch trick . I NEVER would have figured out that one and would have bunged it up big time trying !!,
I dont undersand the mysteries of a voltage regulator so well but was wondering if the battery was low for sitting ,and then too many cranks,if that would allow the voltage regulator contact to stay contacted when it shouldnt such that it stays in contact after the cars turned off even though the ignition was off ,this might explain the intermittant nature of the problem that didnt reoccur after a nice 6 v charge for several hours ,MYSTERIOUS!