Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Any pearls of wisdom for removing the two units from a 56 Packard? Looks like the glove box and heater plenum must both come out to get the tuner head out? Power supply and speaker look a bit easier.

Glovebox yes, plenum maybe. If your glovebox is the shorter version it may slide back enough to remove without hitting the plenum but if rear is almost touching, then you'll need to remove the plenum.

If you have the short box, then don't remember how high plenum goes up but the next issue is getting your hand & a wrench behind the tuner section to undo the nut holding it to the support strap. I think plenum is only held in by 4 or 5 screws and it's light so removal is not a terrible ordeal--if the cardboard defroster ducts co-operate and don't self destruct. There is more room with the heater plenum in place than there is on AC cars with the big evaporator and tuner will come out without removing the evaporator on those.

Power supply is fairly easy. There's a couple of plugs but the shield for the speaker switch cable is screwed on. Once unit loose, you may have enough slack in the switch cable to drop it down to better access the ground screw.

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HH, thanks for the help. Technique and tips for removing the glove box? Is it likely it can be saved or should I plan on needing a new one?

I would go ahead and remove the power unit first to clear some space. It's fairly high and probably not worth the effort but the clock could also be removed to help the box clear if you wanted. The more room the better depending on size and condition of box.

The glovebox light assy needs to disconnect from the feed wire and be removed. There is a little slide in contact and socket arrangement on the side which, IIRC, has a kind of latch. Wire may disconnect from behind with lamp assy still in box but I think it may be easier to remove the entire lamp assy first to work the sliding if there is enough slack in wire. Assy just pulls out from the front. Anyway, at any rate light needs to come out and once disconnected the wire then pushes back thru the hole and out the side of box.

The box is held with 9 sheetmetal screws and all can be reached when the door is open. 2 each on sides and top, 3 on bottom which also holds the little plastic bar. Once screws out, the box needs to slide to firewall a couple of inches or so. That amount of clearance determines whether plenum needs to come out. If you can slide it back enough to clear the door latch striker assy at the top and the sides of opening, then all can slide to right in space that was occupied by clock and power unit then turn and drop down. If the striker assy is interfering, it can also come out to gain a little. Box is probably old cardboard falling apart fragile so the less you have to twist and jockey the box determines how well it survives but you should be able to remove with very little to no damage.

Howard,

Thanks for the excellent description on an arcane topic. However, I've found that the biggest factor is personal size and weight. It helps working anywhere under the dash if you are NOT 6'1" and 250lb or larger. Also helpful if you have small, flexible hands, which is not the case (anymore) with many of us. Probably step #1 in the radio removal process is removing the front seat, just to gain the extra maneuver room.

Craig

And another big annoyance of working under dashes is being a bifocal wearer. HH56, thanks for the added advice and I did look at the pictures in the shop manual for the dealer installation of the radio and that was also somewhat helpful in terms of illustrations. Also spoke about it with Randy Berger tonight, so I think tomorrow I'll take a crack at it.

With good advice from HH56, Randy Berger, and a fellow PAC member who will be doing the rebuilding, removal of the two radio components was as simple as any under-dash job could be, took about 20 minutes.

Front seat all the way back, right side seat cushion (Caribbean) removed, and friend George Lewer (more than 10 years younger and who doesn't wear bifocals) had it out in no time. Didn't remove the heater plenum or clock. Glove box took a little coaxing but came out without any damage and looks to be quite pristine, no apparent cracking or age damage.

Thanks to all who offered guidance.

It's always easier to tell someone how to do it than to actually do it yourself.

Owen_Dyneto Quote:

Dave, good to hear. What is wrong with the radio requiring its removal in the first place?

Craig