Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I figure I must be doing some thing wrong, but even after reading the "Instruments" section in the 1951-1954 Packard manual, I cannot see how a normal human being can physically get at the wiring behind the instrument panel of my '52 Packard 200 Deluxe.

The TOP two screws that hold the instrument panel in place are of course obvious. I cannot for the life of me find the BOTTOM two, which are supposedly accessed from under or behind the dashboard, while trying to keep your head off the clutch and brake pedals, and trying to figure out how to actually get at least one and preferably two hands up into the artea under and behind the dash. And of course, while having the fluorescent (so it does not fry the 56 year old wiring)trouble light in theri as well so you can actually pretend to SEE something.

I would really like to be able to reach the clock fuse, since my clock was not working when I bought my Packard a month ago, and I'd feel stupid buying a new one if all that is needed is a new fuse.

I would also like to gain access to the old wire, whose color is indeterminate due to age, on which I can see 1/4 inch of BARE conductor, so I can at least tape it with electrical tape until I replace the fossilizing wire harness.

I am not tiny, but am also not huge, so I figure I must simply be missing something obvious about getting back there.

WHERE are those 2 alleged bottom screws or studs??

Are there more fun surprises awaiting me once I get THEM off?

Should I be disconnecting the battery positive temrinal like the manual says, or does that needlessly complicate the diagnostics when there is only ONE person available? (and it's such a pain getting in and out from under that dash area)


Jim G

Jim, Have you tried using a mirror to at least see the location of the wires under the dash? Whenever I work on my '47 dash wiring I almost alway disconnect the positive (ground) battery terminal. I am sorry I can't offer much help but I am sure others with 51-54 Packards will.

Absolutely remove the battery cable. If you're already seeing bare wire, it will only get worse with moving things. The bottom screws are actually nuts that go on threaded studs which is part of cluster. They are on the bottom of cluster and about 2 inches in from either side.

The surprise will be if you can actually get the cluster out after removing them. IIRC the last one I removed had wires which were fairly short & stiff. I believe they passed behind or through the bracket which holds steering column to upper cowl area. Couldn't move cluster much without disconnecting.

The clock fuse should be inline type and fairly close to clock.

HH56: Thank-you for pointing me in the right general direction.

Question: Once the nuts have been successfully found and removed by someone with very dextrous fingers, is it a mortal sin to simply not re-install them so that future access will require removing only the easy TOP screws? Or, will this lead to vibration and movement of the instrument panel?

I'm asking because if the nuts are at the bottom of studs that extend DOWN from the panel, then the studs withOUT nuts should still locate the panel's bottom edge, and the TOP screws might be sufficient to prevent vibration?

Jim G

I lied on the 2 inches bit--actually closer to 4". As to leaving off, haven't tried but probably won't hurt if they are actually holes they fit into. If slots, wouldn't suggest it but you can always reinstall the nuts if there is a problem. I would expect a rattle so might suggest putting some kind of thick fabric tape or similar on bottom so cluster wouldn't be quite as loose down there.

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Ah, that helps me to see where to look better. . .

Thanks!

Jim G

Too more quick questions:

1. Can you get a socket in there, or are you best off using an open end or box end wrench?

2. What size of wrench or socket (if you recall - that would make it easier for me)?

Jim G

Its an 8-32 stud and if it's a standard nut, 11/32. However, it could be an automotive with larger hex or a stamped speednut type. I would also have a 3/8 handy. Don't think a straight socket will work because of the stuff around but it's been a while so won't swear to that.

Thank-you!

Jim G

There was a logical explanation for why I could not find the lower stud nuts: the prior owner had left them off.

I had a gut feeling that might be the case, so I simply unscrewed the 2 top bolts, and tilted the instrument panel out. I unscrewed the speedometer cable, and voila, the panel easily came forward to the extent that the tight wiring allowed.

That allowed me to put electrical tape on that bare spot I mentioned earlier.

While in there, I lubricated the speedometer cable and speedo head (not going crazy with the oil). I thought that might settlethe speeometer down a bit - it "swings" about 2 or 3 mph around the indicated speed on the road - but it made no detectable difference.

It also allowed me to check the fuse in the clock, and find that it IS good, so the clock itself must be in need of repair or replacement. I'll look around for one that someone has tested and found to be working.

It's also pretty obvious to me that the wiring harness is original, and getting close to be a candidate for fossilization, so I figure I'd better ask you guys what approach to take on that (separate posting to keep threads clean).

Jim G