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Thanks, all. Still getting my bearings straight on where to loccate the literature. (I knew it was there somewhere).

As to the rust surgery, yeah, I know. It's just taking on a bit more than I want for this project. Down here in the South, we don't have salty roads. I am hoping a quick fix will hold up for a good while. Hoping....

The reason for that rust in the door panels is because I made a mistake in getting the car before I had a garage. I did not realize that old weatherstripping didn't hold up. (I'm still learning). So, pine needles and crap just entered the door's inside, right past the worn felt.

I plan on getting new felt and stripping.

We moved, and I can now garage the car. Hoping treatment and fiberglass in those areas will hold up.

I took a bit less than half of my exterior chrome to a plater for pricing.

I did not bring any bumper stuff. I did not bring any window chrome. I did not bring door handles. I did not bring rocker chrome molding.

I brought 1 piece of everything else.

Looks like re-chroming is going to run about $2,500 or so. This doesn't include bumpers and the parts attached to them. I might skip that for now..... but maybe not. My bumpers are pretty decent, but might be made to look bad with all the newly re-chromed stuff.

My advice is to take a couple of common pieces first and see if the rechroming is to your satisfaction. Of course if you have high recommendations from friends about the shop then go with your instincts.

Took the stripped car to painter yesterday. Took all the parts I want re-chromed to plater today. From what I am told, we should expect to reassemble in about 2 weeks.

Things always take longer than you first think.

All reassembled now. Could use some additional polishing, but I wanted to cruise around.

When I come to a stop, it wants to stall. I have to put it in neutral until I am ready to move again. I am not much of a mechanic, but am thinking I need to turn the idle up.

As I recall, there are 2 screws at the carb. Which one do I turn?

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Looks like it's NEW! Beautiful car.

As for the stoplight problem, if she runs smooth at idle you might want to check the idle speed setting before adjusting anything else. Its located under the throttle linkage right where it terminates on the carb. You'll need a standard (not phillips) screwdriver. I always take the air cleaner off just to make it easier.

If you have a tachometer you can hook up, the setting should be around 450rpm. Maybe a little higher if you have an automatic.

...am thinking I need to turn the idle up. As I recall, there are 2 screws at the carb. Which one do I turn?

The two (brass) screws are for idle mixture, not idle speed which is a single screw where the linkage from the pedal meets the throttle shaft. They are two different adjustments, one the air/fuel mixture (which can affect the speed), and the second is idle speed alone. If you want to play with the idle mixture (2 brass screws), use of a vacuum gauge gives the most accurate adjustment. If you don't want to do it that way, begin with one of the two and screw it in (CW) until the engine begins to falter. Then slowly screw it out (CCW), as you do the idle will smoothen out but at some point you'll get no additional improvement, and that's reasonably close to optimum. Do the same procedure with the other idle mixtue screw, and then go back to the first again. Should be done with warm engine, choke valve open, at or near the recommended idle rpm. Reset the idle speed after you've finished with the idle mixture adjustment.

That seems to have done the trick. Thanks.

Also, I still need to mount the "Deluxe" scripts on the front fenders. When I got the car, there were none, and the holes had been puttied and painted over. I'd like to get as close to factory location as possible. I've seen very rough pictures, but am wondering if someone can give something more exact than me having to "eyeball" it.

Certainly a nice looking car. On the script placement, is there any evidence of the filled holes on the inside of fender. It's open in that area so unless a fantastic fill job or covered with undercoat, there might be some trace of the holes left.