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A little late getting back with an update, but the 327 cranked right up with a teaspoon of gas poured into the carb, and didn't quit! Runs great after 27 years of sitting.

The clutch was frozen to the pressure plate- with the pedal depressed, the trans would not go into gear with the engine running. No brakes either- master cylinder dry. So the previous owner volunteered to drive it in an attempt to free the clutch. Started in gear with the pedal depressed, and off she went! He drove it through the dirt rows of soybeans, lurching on and off the gas, and after about 1/4 mile, it broke loose.

Changed the plugs and fan belt (NAPA), and cleaned her up a little with his pressure washer.

Next installment- get her to my shop!

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S8 in my shop! Now I can tear into the brakes.

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Brake job. Removed master cylinder. Pits too severe to hone. Sent it off to Apple Hydraulics for re-sleeving.

Hoped for better luck with the wheel cylinders. No so! electrolysis set in and fused the pistons to the cylinder. Searched BigKevs X-Ref chart along with NAPA's web site. NAPA had some '54s (Front cylinders: F 18291 and 18290, rears: F 18984 and 18985), so I'm taking my old ones over to se if they'll match up. They have hoses there too. Much cheaper than Kanter.

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Are you aware that you can get brand new, factory fresh master cylinders for many Packards from Kanters? Last time I checked (couple of weeks ago) the price for a 48 was in the $155 range. Not that there is anything wrong with sleeving and new internals either.

I've enjoyed watching your progress so far, keep it up!

Joey, I hope that if you figure out modern replacement numbers, you'll post them for we others who have 50's! I have not needed to do anything to my brakes, but then tomorrow is another day! Is your car black or blue? It is hard to tell if my color is off or I see a reflection. I have to tell you, I have never loved an old car as much as I do the '50 Packard...

The car is code B, Packard Blue Metallic. The body, however, is in black primer, so that may be the cause for the confusion.

I discovered this evening that the parts I have will work. However, it will require a little modification:

The original cylinders have 7/16" fittings in the front, and 7/16' coarse in the rear with a 7/16" female flare to a 7/16" male coarse thread adapter that goes into the cylinder. All of the new NAPA cylinders have 3/8" flare fittings. I should be able to find 7/16" female to 3/8" male adapters, and I'll be good to go. The other difference is the original front bore size is 1-1/16" while the new ones are 1-1/8", with the rear ones going from 15/16" to 1". That shouldn't be a problem. It is possible that I can go back to NAPA and try to find some other part numbers that are exact replacements. But they only go back to '51.

I have a tight budget, and I'm saving $100 over the Kanter cylinders, and don't have to wait a week to get them. I will post part numbers when I am sure all will work and have tested them.

Please excuse the grease on the lens of the first photo!

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Owen, I considered buying the Kanter M/C, but decided to go with a brass sleeved original as it was only $80 plus the kit for $15 from NAPA. The brass will never pit, and supposedly holds more pressure than cast or stainless. I shipped my part for only $5.85 in a priority mail envelope, with the M/C wrapped in bubble wrap and the envelope taped all over completely by the kind Postlady, with official tape (no extra charge). Shipped Friday, and they got it today.

I need to save as much as I can for the chrome plating!

Yesterday, I did some work in the evening after spending a little time in the morning working out the details of my wheel cylinders.

The results of my day:

Established that I would need four brass adapters to convert from the existing brake lines to the new '54 cylinders I found at NAPA (Thanks to BigKev's X-Ref).
Will post photos later.

Bought the correct hoses (3) which are exactly like the ones on my '48.

Rolled under the car on my creeper for the first time to evaluate the condition of the undercarriage. I was very pleased to discover that this car really has absolutely no rust or rot, the underside showing little use and a coating of undercoat that must have been applied 60 years ago but looks as good as new. The undercoat is black, with a gloss, and is speckled only with a little mud that should come right off. Extremely sound for a 64 year old car. The only gummed up areas are where you would expect- places where there were lubricants. Differential, overdrive, etc. There's a Midas muffler that was installed in the mid eighties before it was parked, and I was told has a lifetime warranty!

Ditto with the front suspension. The caked on dirt is not too bad- I blew most off the lower control arm with air pressure. I decided to remove the backing plate on the right front axle, and clean the spindle. Took me about 15 minutes with a hand held wire brush and some brake clean. Movement is excellent with no detectable wear whatsoever. The tie rod may have a bend in it; I will check some images from the manual to see if it's supposed to look that way. The front spindle came so clean, with no traces of paint, that I'm wondering if I should prime and paint it. Were they painted from the factory?

Details of the brake cylinders:

Fronts: F 18291 and 18290, $13.49 each.
Rears: F 18985 and 18984, $8.49 eqch.

They all fit with the addition of the brass adapters. i'm a little confused as to the size designation- The cylinders have plugs in them that read "3/8", but the adapter are designated 5/16" to 1/4". The adapters on the rear attach with a copper washer, just as the original setup. and the fronts accept the flared connection directly from the hose.

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When cleaning the front backing plate, I noticed a thin paper gasket between the plate and spindle. It fell apart. Is it a necessary item? Easily available?

Yes, this is needed. It prevents liquefied axle grease from leaking into the drum area and possible onto the shoes. Also make sure the "drain" hole is clean and open so any of that grease can leak safely to the outside of the drum.