Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

PackardV8,
If I were to repeat the process, wouldn't that let air into the rear brake lines? Since I would have to disconnect the rear to bleed the front.

If you really want to bleed brakes then the way to go is to buy a good pressure bleeder and associated adapters.

One time I was dealing with a case of spongy brake pedal and the commensurate expert accusations of air in the brake lines.

So I hooked up the pressure bleeder in front of the customer, threw open all four taps, and dumped two quarts of brake fluid in five minutes.

When he was satisfied there was no air in the system, I told him he needed new brake drums. I got the last laugh because he was screwed.

Mabye there is a specialty shop in your area that has one, although for your modified setup, getting the adapter on may be impossibly difficult.

i used to work for ford at the norfolk Va. assembly plant and was familiar with their system it is far more modern than what packard had but it would pull a vacuum on the system and dump fluid in immediately after the brakes were filled and bleed in seconds and there were very few repairs needed due to improper fill. also I am pretty sure the outlet closest to the push rod goes to the front cylinders that is because that would be the first to activate by 1 zillionth of a second

Quote:
"If I were to repeat the process, wouldn't that let air into the rear brake lines? Since I would have to disconnect the rear to bleed the front."

Possibly a small amount IF the MC is mounted low as under the floor board. In that case plug the disconnected brake line too.

Your question is a good one for LOW mounted mc's. For MC's mounted high as on fire wall then not a problem.

In either case, once the wheel cylinder bleeding is complete then have a helper just hold pressure against pedal and loosen the brake lines one at a time at MC just enuf to release any air, if any.

Check the routing of the brake lines. If they suddenly rise higher than the master cylinder (rising high very close to master cylinder) then your question is most valid for which i have no good solution other than pressure bleeding. Mite make a pressure bleeder using an extra MC lid with a fitting on it to allow for compressed air to act as the pressure. Not a true pressure bleeder but works. MAKE SURE THE MASTER cylinder reservoir does not run dry.

Okay Guys,
I've been working on other projects for this car, to get away from the brakes for a while. Well now it is back to it. One thing I do notice when I press down on the pedal, is a "grunting" noise coming from the booster. Now, I assume that means I need to adjust the push rod, doesn't it? Another hint would be the many times I pushed in on the pedal, with no solid fluid line from bleeder screw to bottle of fluid. So, with that being said, how do I properly adjust it. How far does it need to be sticking out from the booster body? Do I just loosen it out a few turns to get it to the proper length?

After I get the brakes done, I will be close to getting her out on the road. Just need to fix a problem with my throttle linkage sticking, and get her some decent tires. Oh, and that water pump I bought from that salvage yard works great, as well as the fuel pump I re-built. That deadline is looking more accomplishable!

-Garrett

Master Power Brakes, says their power boosters require no adjustment, and are ready to go. What else could be the problem? Tomorrow I will have a helper over and give the 2 person bleeding system a try. I really want to get out on the road.

Well, sadly it appears my 200 Deluxe will not be making it to Austin, TX for the Lonestar Roundup. After contacting MPB, and sending photos of the master cylinder and power booster, it appears I was sent a booster with too long of a pushrod. Now doesn't that figure, months of work bringing a car back to life that was sitting for 41 years, everything looking like it is ready to go, and something as simple as a pushrod that is too long is keeping this car from going. I didn't expect a 60 year old engine to fire right up; it did. I expected a completely brand new brake system to work; it didn't.

There is a bright side to this though. The problem with me not being able to bleed the brakes wasn't my fault. And I know, had it not been for that, I would have made the show.

-GearRat

Was the pushrod not allowing the cylinder piston to come all the way back or another issue?

That was exactly the problem. When I took off the booster, it pulled in a lot of fluid.

Wait a minute!!!! The booster push rod should have a LENGTH ADJUSTEMNT to it AND instructions on how to adjust it!!!! Did the power unit and master cylinder come ALREADY assembled TOGETHER or did u have to bolt the master cylinder to the power unit yourself????