Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Tomorrow (Sunday) I'm headed to look at a '56 400. The description I have is that it's been parked inside for almost 10 years. Never started after it was parked, and probably no storage prep. Has "some" gas in it. The body is re-done and is in primer, with an entire new front clip because of previous "eye-brow" cancer. The chrome is off, but "it's mostly all there." It is probably a 2-owner vehicle, the first owner having it from new for many years, and selling it to the present owner.

Doesn't sound too bad, so far.

1. WHAT DO I LOOK FOR... SPECIFIC TO THIS MODEL... THAT YOU WOULDN'T ORDINARILY LOOK FOR BUYING AN OLD USED CAR?

2. I have asked to bring along MM oil, Stabil, and 5 gallons of non-oxy gas and a battery to see if she'll start. I'd much rather do this in two stages, oiling the cylinders one day, letting it soak, and starting it the next day. Will I run into trouble rushing it? Maybe break something?

3. Is it easy to drain the gas tank? Where's the plug? I'd much rather drain out what's in there and add fresh, but if I can't drain it, is worthwhile to just pour in the new stuff and hope for the best? What's the downside--will it ruin anything if it's really bad?

4. Assuming it starts, any hints on how to tell if the brakes are working, and whether the transmission is operating, without moving the car? (I doubt it's going to be in a place where I can move it... probably doesn't even have tires that'll hold air.)

5. It's obviously an abandoned resto, with the old claim that "It ran when I parked it there 10 years ago." So I do know what I'm likely to be in for.

Could be a bust, but I couldn't forgive myself if I didn't take a look.

I hope I can get some answers on this by Saturday evening, 12-5 or early Sunday a.m., if you could please, guys?

On a car like that I wouldn't start working on it until I paid for it and got it home.

I would have to buy it cheap enough that even if it had major problems I wouldn't get hurt financially.

In other words it's a gamble no matter what you do but don't take too much of a gamble.

To put it another way right now it is a parts car and should sell for a parts car price.

If you do a lot of work and get it running it is a runner at a running car price (higher).

So you get to do a lot of work then pay the seller for the privilege.

Just go buy the car AS IS and LOW BALL the price to keep your ass covered if the engine is seized or it turns out to be extra rusty.

The problem with getting it started is u just made it real easy for the seller to sell to someone else and u just did probably $500 worth of work for him.

What i would prefer to do is just take a jack along and jak up the car WITH A GOOD LITE SOURCE and look under the car very carefully. Sometimes in fact most times that is not practicle.

JUst go look at it. Smoke it over. Buy it as is at a price u can be happy with if it turns sour. But i wouldn't go do alot of work on it for free just so the current owner can tell someone else it runs. However, i have done that on one or two occasions over the years AND bought the car on one occasion.

Use the fact that it doesn't run to drive the bargaining.
Pays yo money and takes yo chances.

.

Rusty & PV8 have good points but if you do decide to go ahead and try to start it, would be careful. Don't know of any easy way to check and while not common, have seen engines with valves stuck in guides and pushrods bent when turned over after many years. Would not mess with gas tank drain until well prepared with tools, PB Blaster, and time. If plug never been removed or been many years, would probably be stuck to the point of loosening or twisting off the mount into tank. Seen it done many times.

Otherwise, check just as you would any car. Obvious rust prone areas were well detailed by Brian some time ago in another post for someone looking at a car in Washington. Would have a look under at the transverse links from leveler to short bars for any sign of bent bar or other damage. If looks OK, then turn on the leveler and see if it tries to move any--but would not let it go far. Trans fluid should be still red or pinkish and not smell burned. Any sign of a burn and would suspect issues. Shift lever should be reasonably solid with no or minimal play and should have some evidence of selecting whatever forward or reverse gear you choose. If electric, then same with PB selection. A button push should do something -- but if you push a button and nothing happens either with selector or movement, then issues -- maybe minor, maybe not. Turning the key off should put it in park if that section connected & working. Can tell that much without moving but that's about all.

Brake fluid probably dried out but if any, then some pedal would tell you if something there. If running and any fluid, then the vacuum would make the pedal easy for the first inch or so and can probably hear the hiss.

My standard procedure on buying any collector car that has sat for a while is to plan on pulling the engine and taking it apart AFTER purchase. At worst, if everything internal is fine, it costs you an overhaul gasket set, plus labor (your own hopefully). Otherwise, you find out what is wrong without have a cascade failure.

The T-U, T-L, brakes, cooling system, fuel system, and electrical system can all be diagnosed and maybe fixed without total disassembly.

Good luck!

Craig

Thanks so much for all your good advice.

Here's what I'm taking on my quest:

Good fully charged battery.
Marvel M Oil in a squirt can.
8 gallons of non-oxy gas (more on this later) and StaBil additive
PB Blaster
Carb cleaner
Type F tranny fluid
Anti-Freeze mix
Air tank
Tools, of course
GOOD flashlight
A big can of Wupass (for bargaining)
NO checkbook!

I figure I can check a ton of stuff just by hooking up the battery--it's also got electric windows, the leveler, accessories etc. AND find out if anything starts burning.

This shouldn't take too long. Before trying to crank it, I'd remove plugs (general idea of how it was running before stored, plus a bent electrode is a big warning sign). Squirt MM oil all around, then touch the starter. If it turns over I'll keep it turning for awhile with plugs out. Then replace plugs.

If it gets that far, I think it would be very worthwhile to put the gas and StaBil in. The more gas in the tank over winter, the better, if I wind up buying the car.

Materials cost, about 20 bucks.
Time, about 2 hours, including a general inspection with a light. Thanks for the tip about jacking it up. I'll add a hydraulic jack and jackstands to my list--or at least jackstands... give me a chance to try the bumper jack out (if it's there).

Still would like to drain the tank, if possible. First thing I'll do is PB Blaster the plug and then do all the other stuff while it soaks. Seeing what drains out, if it's all rust and water for example, will give me an idea whether the tank's any good.

Is the plug a bolt-head or a 1/2" or 3/8" square hole?

Can anybody guide me to that thread about where to look for rust?

Any and all information is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!

Craig: thanks, I'll need it.

55, BEFORE you start cranking the engine, I'd take a breaker bar and socket, put it on the crank bolt on the bottom pulley, and try to turn the engine that way. You might get a bit dirty from laying on the floor/ground, but at least you will know for sure if the engine turns freely or not. Also, you may consider disconnecting the line from the fuel tank and just running a feeder hose into your gas can. Less worries about junk in the tank getting into fuel pump, carb, etc.

Plug should be a pipe plug on the front edge near the gas outlet with about a 3/8" square head --not a hole-- or at least mine is. It's either 3/8 or 1/4 in pipe. Just be sure to hold the collar that is soldered or pressed into tank with vise grips when removing it. The plug sticks out of the collar with about 1/8" threads exposed. Plug is iron and I think collar may be too because they can sure stick together although that one may be fine.

Scottie gives good advice on the breaker bar and socket to turn over the engine. However, u will not be able to do it from underneath the car. Gravel deflector is in the way.

WHILE U HAVE THE SPARKING PLUGS REMOVED use your hand to tension the fan belt and the other hand to turn the engine by the fan blade leverage. MUST MAKE AT LEAST 2WO FULL TURNS of crank.
Trying to get the breaker bar and socket in place is difficult on these engines because the fan is in the way and other obstructions so plan on doing it by hand while the plugs are removed.