Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

I'm glad you've rethought the use of an electric pump and have decided to go back to the mechanical pump; I think you've made a wise decision. Keep the electric for priming after long storage if you wish - many who do that install them using a "dead man" type switch that requires you to keep your finger on the switch to activate the pump.

I've removed more cylinder heads from this type of engine than I care to remember, rarely is it much of a prolem. Of course I've heard of that old technique of using engine compression to break the gasket seal but never done that. After I remove all the fasteners and anything else in the way I start by using a broad and sharp-edge tool like a putty knife and insert it carefully between the top edge of the gasket and the head and give a few taps with a light hammer and continue doing so by working my way around the perimeter of the head. A second round with a little deeper penetration may be needed but assuming no rust has taken place around the studs, typically it will break loose somewhere in that process and I begin to raise it evenly using spacers like small wooden blocks and the like to get it up high enough to loop a couple of old leather belts beneath it and use them to lift it. If after you remove the head nuts you see rust or corrosion in the space between the stud and the block you may have a blow headgasket, then fill the spaces as best you can with your favorite rust buster (PB Blaster still my favorite) and allow it to work for a few days before you work on it.

Of course in addition to whatever you do when the head is off, you'll need a new head gasket and don't forget to have the threads on the nuts and studs cleaned and dry to get the proper torque application. This little primer might be informative:

http://www.packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=863

Fuel pump pressure from the SW is only around 1.5 - 2.5 lbs. For running I'd suggest keeping the original mechanical pump. Also when you set-up the DL carb. and check the fuel level, use a fuel supply that matches the pump psi.

I used the same pump that was going to be on the car and plumbed it to the carb. for a bench test. If you just use gravity feed the fuel level is going to be different.

One source for SW pump parts, that fit the original pumps.

http://www.classicandexotic.com/store/c-366-stewart-warner.aspx

The SW SW-407 pump fits '32 901's. Harder than hens teeth to find. Took me two years before I found a rebuild able spare.

Occasionally I've seen then at Hersey for $500+.

Also:

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?viewmode=compact&topic_id=2912&forum=1

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The '32 901 SW-407 pump is very similar to this one, except the pump actuation lever comes out almost straight and has a rounded end, to allow it to pivot on the top flat of the cam driven pump rod.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1931-1932-1933-NOS-Stewart-Warner-Fuel-Pump-P-62005-/141812414253?hash=item2104adb72d:g:FIUAAOSwhcJWJWB3&vxp=mtr

Some additional info on these pumps. Sorry about the quality, my originals are copies of copies.

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Thanks everyone for the information on this fuel pump.
Owen, regarding the cylinder head, I could not get it loose because the head was stuck to the studs. I used Kroil to soften it up and after three applications in three days, I tapped the studs with a small hammer and a block of wood. This did the job and I was able to pull the head off.
BTW, that Kroil is the best stuff I have ever used.
Unfortunately, I bent the distributor drive shaft and will need to straighten it out. I'm sure it needs to be perfectly straight to work properly.
Allen

Home Away From Home, when I bought my 900, it had an air cleaner just like the one on the 32 901 pictured. All the parts for the heat ducting were in a cardboard box along with some other parts.
I would expect that the heat ducting would only be used in cold weather. Does that make sense?
BTW, I wonder why the two different engines would use different fuel pump push rods. Do you know?
Thanks
Allen

BTW, that Kroil is the best stuff I have ever used.

Yeah, Kroil was the gold standard for many years and for many mechanics it still is.