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Im not fully sure where the check value is located but I will try to unhook the hose line from the engine and I'm guessing blow through the hose that's attached to the booster to see if any air comes out

Yes it have checked all of that in through out the cars brakes, it doesn't need pads do to the pads actually still being brand new with how much pads is still on them, and i had checked the cylinders none of which seem to be bad or show any sighs of being bad and etc

Vacuum hoses are large, thick-walled and do not kink so are you sure it has the problem type?

I'm not sure all I know is that the hose has a minimal kink right before it connects to the vacuum tank

You'll need to check it, then, as if it's the wrong hose it will collapse under vacuum. You should probably replace all with hose that you know for sure is for vacuum as there is too much at risk to just guess.

Be sure to replace all three of the flexible brake hoses too even if they look good on the outside. With age and lack of annual flushing, they collapse internal while still looking pliable on the outside.

Test the one-way check valve on the manifold too to be sure it's working which is easy to do without even having to remove it and can make the difference of whether the brakes work properly or not. As others have described, the brakes on my 1954 Patrician will stop the car on a dime if I as much as look at the pedal! Perhaps a slight exaggeration but it takes absolutely no effort whatsoever.

If your brake shoes are relined, be sure to use only soft material as the modern hard metalized stuff will not grip well and can even damage the drums. Shoes are cheaper and easier to replace than drums are. I made that mistake once on my 1952 Henney-Packard and found myself sitting on a steep rural hill in the mountains and unable to keep the 3+ ton car from going backward!

Alright to answer all of 56clippers questions.

• Yes i inspected the drums and confirmed that yes there are Rusty and my even have to be turned at some point
• the master that's currently in the car is new/old one due to the original one being found in the trunk of the car that was completely trash with how corroded it was when I bought it and another one that was currently installed in the car that still had liquid fluid in it and still functional so no it is not freshly rebuilt do to it still being functional.
•I'm not familiar with the Treadevac unit so no it have not rebuilt it.
•yes i have replaced the brakes hoses they were replaced when the whole brake line system was replaced
•no it have not replaced the brakes cylinders because the two that i had looked at on the car looked to be fine but they might need a closer inspection.
•no it have not replaced the brakes hoses due to them seeming fine and also possibly replaced already but the last owner when the engine was swapped to a chevy 350 motor (yes i have the original packard motor in my possession, I plan to rebuild it)
•yes the pedal remains hard when the car is on or off and sitting for a few days.
•and from what I can tell from when I drove it last it did not pull to ether side when braking but I'll test that again next time I go to drive it.
• and yes I'm sure the contact between the pads and drums will need to be adjusted i will do that soon most likely before i drive the car next.
•

Where would the one way check valve be located cause im not familiar with its location probably even more so sense the motor that's in my 55 packard is a chevy 350 and not the original packard 352.

I'm not exactly sure where it is on a 1955 but it should be on top of the intake manifold or back of carburetor - it's what the hose connects to. Remove the hose and connect a short length of new hose that you can reach from over the fender. In a quick no-tool way to test it when using the new piece of hose, you should be able to blow easily through it but when you suck (gently so it to not inhale debris) you should not be able to do so. If free both ways, then it needs to be replaced as I am not aware of any service kits for repairing it, at least not for the earlier ones.

As for the master and booster, they are relatively easy to rebuild and I always do my own. Just be sure to buy the proper kit and that it includes all parts. There is one felt seal that no kits have for some reason so I had some made bu it's not a critical piece.

Alrighty then that means I need to get a section of clean hose to use for that test, hopefully it doesn't need to be replaced or if it does then I'll replace it hopefully it's not hard to replace but if someone could also find a picture I can match the part to and see if I even have one way valve of my car cause honestly with how much that's been changed and fiddled with I'm not sure what all have been changed, replaced or reused on my car so would be greatly appreciated if someone could track down a picture on the one way valve I should be looking for as well as it's intended location too.

I suggest you read this post explaining in detail the exact correct vacuum line arrangement. The check valve is the funnel-shaped piece on the rear of the carburetor and is clearly shown on a couple of the photos.

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