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Thanks for the pic, the 48-54 parts book does not show the oil filter option installed. I will have to try to find to get some of the other Parts Books here on the website as the plate sheets are very extremely helpful.

I think the only difference on the '54 engine is that the return bung is farther forward. Almost right under the oil filter.

The picture is a 356 engine and the oil filter was standard equipment ond not an accessory on this engine.

Well since I am waiting on various parts to arrive. I thought I would take a break from rebuilding things, and start the process of de-greasing and rust removal from the engine.

So I removed most of the external engine parts (oil filter, coil bracket, plug wire, carb, etc) to give me better access to the block. I also have got most of the manifold bolts broken lose, the rest are still soaking in penetrator. The two bolts closest to the middle of the manifolds are a bear to get loose. Plus you can't get a socket on them.

Using a die grinder with a wire cup I started to clean up the waterpump, timing cover, and crank pulley. In the picture you can see where some previous owner had painted the timing cover a color close to the body color. The value cover are also painted that same color.

I think I will have to add a new water outlet neck to the list of parts on my list. Open looking at the old one, it is getting pretty thin and brittle where the hose connection is.

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The de-greasing process is about 50% done at this point. I used a putty knife to scape away the really thick stuff off of the control arms and the other parts of the suspension and steering. It's an amazing combination of grease and dirt.

Then I broke out the oven-cleaner. That crap is pretty nasty, but it does work. Just keep it away from anything rubber or plastic. It pretty much disolves the grease and road tar enough so you can hose it off. I bought a couple $1 cans of it from the 99 cent store. Then I changed the nozzle on the cans with the one from my penetrator. That way I could use the spray tube to direct it into the nooks and cranies.

The stuff works better when you let it soak for several hours. It is supposed to work right away if you can heat the motor up.

I found out that the entire bottom half of my engine still is painted. It was buried under all that muck.

The bad thing about the oven cleaner is that it will flash rust any bare steel in a matter or minutes. It doesnt seem to have the same affect on cast iron.

I think about two more cans of cleaner, and I will have the entire engine totally clean.

On another topic, I think I figured out a better way to mount the alternator that will make it a bit more secure and keep it tucked in closer to the block. I still need to do a little fitting, but I think it will work out pretty well.

We the PI swapmeet worked out pretty well today and I picked up several pieces that I will need for the car.

I bought a set of new door handle clips. They are made of breillium copper and will not rust. My existing ones are toast. I also bought a new set of wipers, and manifold gaskets. Also a reproduction duct tubing for my car. All of these were PI local chapter projects. Very nice pieces. The ducting, wipers, and gaskets were pretty inexpensive in price. But very good quality. The door handle clips are very expensive. But I never realized that a 4 door car used for different clips. Each clip is slightly different. So therefore the production cost are high on those as they had to make four different sets.

The last thing I found was the final power door switch I was missing. Not I have a complete set of switches (from a 55/56 model year) which I will adapt to use an aftermarket power window kit with.

I also picked up a NOS Delco-Remy breaker plate from ebay. It was still sealed in the D/R container. I had to break the seal to inspect the parts.

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Great finds you got there. Wish we had some shows close to here so I can find great bargains like you did.

Tom -

You gotta get out to "Perrsyburg" next May - especially next year, when it moves down the road to Fremont for an indoor swap meet. In spite of the threat of rain this year, there were a lot of good parts there.

Over the years, I've found just as many Packard parts for my cars at Perrysburg as I did at Hershey - with a lot less expense for travel and accomodations (free parking, too).

As for the door handle clips, how on earth do you remove them? I have a half broken passenger side one on my Pat that I've tried to remove from 2 different parts cars, and broke both of them. I looked them over real well and thought I had them figured out, but there must be some trick to them. Any tips?

Are they real rusty?????? If i remeber rite, ihad the door trim panel already removed when i had to remove the door handle. They are a real bittch when just trying to yank on them so i used a screw drive to depress the spring tabs and greased them or maybe shot some oil on them before pulling on the flange of the clip under the door seal.

I've been fruitlessly trying come up with a retro fit clip arrangement. Probably somekind of retainer clips like used on brake line hoses should work but no such clips in my collection are anywhere cllose to the rite size.

The only way I know of to remove the rusty ones is to remove the window reveal. Then roll the window all the way down. Once you do that you will have complete access to the clip. Then you can bend the tabs and then tap the clip out with a screwdriver and a hammer. This is far more effective than trying to pull it out from the door jam hole.

These new ones wont rust. So you will be able to remove them without all the fuss in the future. They better last forever based on what I paid for them.