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In addition to the thread PV8 just referred to, here are another couple of options. Again, without all the specs can't say if any would work--but lots of others to look at.

The poster who used the 57 Chevy tank also had the GM sender and fuel pickup since there is only the one opening in that tank. The sender wouldn't work with our gauges but it may be possible to adapt ours to their mount or use a universal sender replacement -- something along the lines of the drawing. Downside would be finding the right angle or length for the float support for the different location or geometry would take some experimentation.

Another possibility is an earlier tank (not sure if that one is the right capacity) similar to the third picture with some mods to the filler pipe. Maybe cutting that filler off short and using ours which connects with a hose. Not sure about our vent. The outlet opening would most likely have to be replumbed on our cars but aside from looks, most likely that would be minor details.

Anyway, hopefully your tank can be salvaged but if not, there's used or if you're feeling experimental, maybe options.

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Perhaps it's time for someone to take the initiative and contact the several companies who make repro gas tanks and see if one of them can be convinced there is enough demand for the 51-56 tank to tool up for it.

I think that's a good idea and am surprised none of the vendors have--or maybe they did and it's like the pistons, unless you have a commitment to sell or buy 1000, the cost is prohibitive. Like the body panels, dies are probably way expensive.

I do think with all the tanks made and shown on several sites, one could be found that would work with minimal changes. It's just that mfgs don't publish many specs and you almost have to lay them side by side to see the differences and possibilities.

If that could be done, even a mfg could be contacted and say use die such and such only leave this part off or drill a hole there type thing. He might be willing to modify a dozen or so or a vendor could stock them and do the mods. A dozen would probably last a while.

Yeah, I remain disappointed about the response to the NOS-style V8 pistons that Dan Kanter was willing to have made. So few sets were required (20 as I recall) and they could have been comingled between the 3 bore sizes and a couple of oversizes. As I remember, only myself, Jack Vines, Ole Book and Randy Berger expressed serious interest.

Yes, was unfortunate because similar opportunities don't come that often.

Problem I saw with that program, aside from the fact I don't plan on doing any more engines so no need, was the uncertainties. You commit a sizable amount to a particular piston without knowing for sure if it could be used when an engine was torn apart or you select one for a 374 but a nice car with a 352 comes along and plans change. You're stuck trying to trade or sell or buying again to get the ones you need.


EDIT: Just looked at those Standard Surplus price lists from the 60's. 55-6 gas tanks @ $25.00. Wonder if any one wound up with those when Standard ceased & how long they lasted. I believe a good amount of the Studebaker stuff was trashed due to bad storage or lack of selling rather than pay the cost of being moved building by building over the years. Wonder if Packard gas tanks fit in that category.

Someone on this website named Keegan is apparently a good sheet metal banger. Maybe he could make up a die and hand hammer them for extra bucks.

Just about every Packard owner has had tank leak or rust problems reported over the years. THe UPPer and lower halves are from the same die. So only one wooden die would be needed. Maybe even pour it out of concreete or something.

IIRC the 55-56 tanks are the same among all models and all the way back to 1951 ???

Well boys and girls, when we last left our story.....

First I want to thank Howard, Owen and PackardV8 for their help with thread suggestions and alternative gas tanks.

Yesterday I rinsed out the gas tank and after pouring the water out of it I stuck the nozzle of my Shop Vac through the sending unit opening and sucked out a lot of really disgusting "stuff". However, I did uncover a bit of (hopefully) good news. It became clear to me that there were two fairly big "dings" in the tank at some point, probably after the first ding, someone had "coated" the inside of the tank. After some time had passed, the tank took its' second hit - which cracked or shattered a portion of the coating. Gas got underneath and more fell/dissolved to the bottom of the tank. The upshot is that after vacuuming out most of the crap, the inside of the tank that I could see didn't really look that bad. In fact, some of it is actually fairly shinney! There is a leak at one of the corners at the seam but that is the only obvious place.

I called Able Radiator (Portlandon coming through yet again) and had a good chat with Tom, the owner. After I told him what I had he said that while he was pretty much out of the gas tank business (no money in it) since it was from a Packard, he'd take it on as he is a fan. After a while he also mentioned that in the past he has built gas tanks for customers that were too far gone - a Jaguar XK-120 for one.
I told him I'd keep that in mind but I imagine that a "one-off" tank would be pretty spendy but still....

He said that since the tank had been coated, I'd have to take it to a place to have the remains of the coating removed. I called them this morning and assuming the inside is dry by Monday I'll drop it off and they will bake the tank and then use a Sulfuric Acid bath to strip it to bare metal.

Then it's back to Tom at Able Radiator for the final cleaning and coating. Tom quoted a price of around $175 for all his work and said the bake and acid bath would probably run about $200 at the other place. I saw that there was a NEW gas tank on e-Bay for my 1960 Imperial for $310 so a new tank would actually be cheaper but - I checked - they don't do Packards.

Yesterday I also bought a fresh 5 gallon plastic "Jerry Can" and as Sunday is my Birthday and I hope to celebrate it by hooking a hose from the "Jerry Can" to the fuel pump and see, after and oil and filter change, taking the plugs out and turning the engine over enough to pump up oil pressure, installing new plugs, points, cap, rotor and condenser, if Sleeping Beauty will favor me by running - weather permitting. I'll need to check and make sure the starter solenoid is diverting power to the distributor while cranking but if it does, I really feel that she'll start.

So far I've found a serious problem with every element an engine needs to run: A messed up ignition switch; Bad Ballast Resistor and a Tank so full of crap that when I tried to empty the water from the rinse out through the filler pipe I got just a trickle instead of a torrent!
Which reminds me to check the fuel pump output Sunday as well as well as the Fuel Bowl Element.

I've said it before but I'm not surprised this car died on the freeway! I'm amazed that it actually got that far.

I took some pictures of the remains of the Sending Unit and the truly VILE mess at the bottom of my Shop Vac and will post them as soon as I can.

If anyone should think of anything else I should do before Sunday, feel free to jump in with it!

Stay tuned!

Jim,

I found this a while back, Although there aren't any locations in OR they might be worth a look as there are dealers in CA.

Anyone else heard anything about these guys? Depending on the price seems a lot easier that gravel or acid strips in the garage and then trying to coat the inside of the tank.


gastankrenu.com/

Hi Stephen,

I ran across them yesterday as well and - your right - it looks exactly like what I'm looking for. For location though, it looks like a split between Stockton or British Columbia.

I may not have been clear about the process here - all I have to do is taxi my tank from one place to another - and, oh yes, bring money.

I appreciate the suggestion though, and I just wish there was a location closer to Portland.

Thanks again,

And now for the next thrilling installment!
My schedule and the weather have limited my time with the Patrician to just a few minutes each day - but here is an update.

So far I have installed the new ignition switch and ballast resistor from Max Merritt and check that everything was as it should be with those. The fuel tank is drying but I plan to take it to be worked on tomorrow.
Yesterday I pulled the Spark Plugs, hooked up a 6 gallon plastic gas can to the fuel pump and filled the radiator. So far so good - no leaks from the cooling system. Then I switched on the starter and let it run for a while with hopes the oil pump and fuel pump would do their bit. I was happy to see movement on the cars Oil Pressure Gauge and the glass Fuel Bowl filled as well. Unfortunately, that was enough movement to kill the seal in the water pump as coolant was now leaving the front of the pump via the shaft (I think) at a very steady drip. Also the fuel bowl needed to be tightened if not a new gasket.

It is truly amazing how fast the clock spins when I'm working on this car. Before I knew it the sun was about to set and aside from installing new spark plugs I called it a day.

Over all I'm pretty pleased. The fuel and oil pump seem to be up for the game if not the water pump so I'll order a new pump today. I'll also reverse the gasket in the fuel bowl and tighten so she doesn't catch fire. Compression is good and I feel (and have so from the beginning) that she really wants to run.

The most difficult part so far was reconnecting the driver's side exhaust pipe to the manifold. It's where these car's Straight Eight roots are obvious. One of the brothers evidently thought you had to loosen the pipe to take out the starter. Evidently they read the "Trouble shooting" section of the FSM which listed the starter as the first place to look when the engine would turn over but not start. It would have saved everyone a lot of trouble if the FSM would have added "solenoid" to starter. But then, I might not have had this opportunity to be care taker for this car 26 years later.

Its now been over a month since I blew out the crap in the master brake cylinder reservoir and topped it off. The fluid level hasn't changed and though not easy without the power assist, the pedal remains firm and the brakes stop the car when I have to move it. My estimation of the Treadle Vac system has risen considerably. I'll go though the brakes entirely when it's ready to be driven but I plan on keeping the Treadle-Vac. I've been following Fred's posts and feel that he has the right take on the "problems".

Anyway, that's where we are with the awakening process. I strongly believe the engine will start! Whether or not the transmission want's to come along as well is yet to be seen but I not really too worried about that as I have an Ultramatic tech's phone number here in Portland.

More to come .......