Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Quote:
Mine has keys marked "Briggs and Stratton." If your key turns the switch to the right, that's the one.

The starter switch is on the carburetor. It works on the principle of a ball that engages the switch mechanism, and vacuum releasing the ball after the engine starts. It's easy for one person to try and start the car at the carb, simply by moving the throttle linkage with the key turned on.

If yours started five years ago, I would almost be certain that it will start now, with new gas. You might have to turn the engine over with the fuel line disconnected at the carb to purge the old gas into a container, and to make sure the pump is working. If it starts temporarily with the introduction of a little gas into the carb, it for sure will run, as long as the pump, tank, and carb are functioning properly.

If you do rebuild the carb, be sure to note the position of the two wires on the carb switch. It won't function if reversed.

My Packard hadn't run for 27 years when I got it. I cleaned the tank, fuel line, rebuilt the carb, and put a teaspoon of gas in the throat, and she fired right up.

Dave Czirr at the Packardclub.org site has an informative document concerning the things to be aware of when bringing an antique vehicle back to life. He is also on this forum, under an assumed name. I figured it out after a while.

Well that is just strange! I like it, kind of like the old bumper cars! it's all coming together, how does the price on that battery sound? I will for sure be getting one soon. Cleaning the tank, blow out fuel lines, is there a fuel filter, or should I run an in line filter? If the tank is gritty, is it best to do the sending unit too? Thanks again! Looks like these blogs will all come in useful as well!

I have a friend who has a NAPA account, and the battery cost me $117.

My car didn't have a fuel filter, and in the process of removing the tank I had to break the fuel line right at the tank as the tube was frozen in the nut. So I cut the fuel line back a few inches, and put a new nut and flared the line. I then made up a short piece of line to attach to the tank, and put a canister filter in line with two short hoses and clamps. This was after cleaning the tank and reinstalling it.

BTW, you should look for the build sheet between the fill and vent tube. It may be there, a few inches down, folded and stuck in the gap. Don't try and pull it out; it may disintegrate- just take a flat screwdriver and slightly pry the tubes apart until it falls out. It will look something like this if you have one. Mine has chunks missing that fell apart in my fingers as I tried to pull it out. But all of the info is there.

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Tractor supply carries the 6v batteries. Check out outlets that supply farm equipment these batteries are still used on farm equipment. Tractor Supply sells them for about $85

First things FIRST and ez things FIRST!!

Before buying the battery make sure the engine isn't 'stuck'. Use a wrench on the crank pulley and spin the engine over BY HAND at least 2 full turns. I prefer to do 8 full turns. Squirt some oil in the cylinders before turning engine over by hand. If engine is seized and requires some work to UNseize it then there's not much point in having a battery setting around.

Was the aircleaner on the carb when u first viewed the car?? Was there any part of the engine that was open to the atmosphere that is usualy covered with something like oil filler cap, air cleaner, gas cap, missing or loose sparking plugs, etc.

If when turning the engine by HAND u run into a tite place where the engine suddenly stops turning with great resistence do NOT force it!!!

Let us know.

Was the car stored outside or indoors for the last year or more???

Car has been outside last few months is all, pretty well sealed up before that, in a garage for a few years. Air filter was on, gas cap too. The engine moves free. I'll check the farm store in town on a battery price.

Be sure to go to the Packard Literature and Manuals section on the PackardInfo website to look at the Owner's Manuals - you will learn a lot there, i.e. tricky stuff on how to turn on the headlights. It is unusual in how it operates. Have fun with the car!

One of the things I do when a car has been sitting for years is build up the oil pressure before starting the engine. To do this take out all the spark plugs, put a small amount of oil in the cylinders, and spin the engine with the starter. The oil pressure gage should begin reading. If it won't read the sender could be bad. That could be checked by removing the sender and putting in a manual gage. A quicker crude test would be to remove the sender and see if oil squirts out when the engine is cranked. Once you have confirmed oil flow you could try to start the engine. Obviously the old oil and filter should be changed before driving.

By the way make sure there is a fresh filter in the fuel line. My Packard has a glass bowl with filter in the line next to the carburetor, but I think that was an option not on every car. Even with a cleaned gas tank there may be old gas crud in the lines and that can plug up a carburetor.