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Minor things accomplished this week. The reverse switch bracket arrived and fits nicely. Thanks again for the ebay notice.

More painting of pieces, and working on a couple of projects. Disassembled, cleaned, checked and painted the wiper mechanism, underseat heater and other electrical items. Have received everything ordered for the chassis except the brake tubing. Had a call telling me items are completed and supposed to be shipped next week. Once they arrive, progress will be made -- maybe. Cunifer tubing arrived yesterday so will work on fabricating a new gas line tomorrow when it's cool. Too hot now. Not quite 2PM and it's 98 outside.

The ongoing brake tube saga continues. Received the long awaited package of tubing today only to find it is apparently for another car -- but you can be the judge. Original tubing are the dirty pieces, new is the stainless.

If those new tubes are supposed to fit my car, I have a whole lot of figuring out how to make the 5 that arrived fit where 6 went originally. The long chassis tube -- even if it were unfolded -- is about 3' too short and the long rear axle piece is about 6" too short. As to the other pieces, forget it. None of those bends match anything.

Kanters is closed for today so inquiries will have to wait until tomorrow. Good thing I guess because Howard is a bit cranky right now.

At least thanks to a whole lot of trouble Wes went to making a video, the fuel tube questions on routing have been well documented. My attempt making a new line was correct so at least that part went to plan.

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"....new is the stainless. ...
... long chassis tube -- even if it were unfolded -...."

How do u expect to UNfold STAINLESS steel ANYTHING?????

SS is EXTREMELY difficult to do ANYTHING with unless it is already made to simply drop into to place. What am i missing here???

Just go get some standard steel brake line from a local auto parts store, bend it up and put it in. Then, 50 to 70 years fom now replace it again.

I just don;t understand why everyone seems to think they have to have SS parts on their car except for trim and maybe but a few exhaust related parts.

THis all baffles the shit out of me.

Stick a magnet to those SS lines. I'm no metalurgist but based on my limited experience GOOD QUALITY SS is NOT magnetic. If u have some SS tableware (knifes forks etc) u can test those. I have quite a misc amount. Some of it is magnetic and some of it is not at all. The lesser quality is magnetic. The good quality is NOT mag.

SS is also very prone to fracture under vibration.

I believe all the repro premade brake lines and fuel lines over a certain length are carefully "bent in half" with a large radius bend and can gently be "unfolded" or straightened. Otherwise, nothing could be shipped over a certain length unless it was by motor express. I'm not sure what that double "Z" arrangement on this one is all about.

As to tubing being stainless, I totally agree. I asked Kanter if they had regular steel and stainless was the only type they sell. These were made by Classic Tube -- or at least came in a box with their label on it. Looking on Classic's website they say all Clippers have a 120" wheelbase so there's the first clue something might be amiss.

As to buying a roll of tubing and doing it myself -- if I had your talent in making double flares I would have. Tried many on the first set of tubes I did for the 56 and it became clear in short order I or my tools do not have the knack. Knowing that, I saw no reason to trust my abilities doing any on this car.

Probably just should have gone with my first idea of buying shorter length straight tubes from the parts store and piecing it together. That's what I finally did on the 56 but was fortunate there because the lengths and joints were perfectly located and able to be hidden. Even those tubes needed shortening in a spot or two but managed to do gentle folds and larger radius bends instead.

I was hoping for some reasonable attempt at a factory look on this one but if it's going to be another two months getting tubes it may come to the straight lengths.

Use the misc lengths already flared. But just out of curiosity what brand of flaring tools are u using??? Are they Harbour Freight type or a good quality name brand???

This flaring issue can be overcome.

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"As to buying a roll of tubing and doing it myself ..."

Wait a minute. That mite be the problem rite there. As many double inverted flares i've made over the years i don't remeber using any bulk tubing. Always used tubing that had already been flared. Cut it to length and flared it at one end.

Maybe try a piece of preflared tubing, cut it with a tubing cutter and THEN try to make the flare.

If I go the bulk way at all it will probably be with the Cunifer tubing. That shouldn't be as big a challenge as steel. It all depends on what Kanter says or is willing to do.

My flaring tool was made by New Britain Tool Co and was carried thru a Matco distributor. It was bought in the 80's and forget how much it was but not cheap. Definitely not HF. New Britain used to make many of Napa's tools but are no longer in business.

Houston (Fresno) we have a problem! Howard you are much more talented than I can ever hope to be, but return the tubing and do it yourself. I used a firm initially too, and the profuct they sent was, well, not even close. Buy a good bender, a flaring tool and just take your time. As conscientious as you are I'm sure the end result will be better for your '47.

Does yours look like this one (note buttons at red arrows)

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