Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Not just cast iron but FORGED. The other problem is that hte anchoring point needs to be more centered with the rotor instead of off to one side.

Why not make the custom brackets with an extension similar the F or Chev brake stays. Alot more work of cutting and welding but it would eliminate the concern.

Anchoring the caliper with just a 1/2 inch of grab so close to the outer edge of the caliper mite cause fast uneven pad wear????????? I don't know. The tests will prove one way or hte other.

Ah yes oh great Eric! You are correct!! I Forgot that 53 and older cars had one bolt pattern! Sorry! it has been YEARS since i got to play with my 52. i wanted a set of ron's brackets just as a template and to save me some time. however, i to have a friend with a plasma. and he says bring me the rest of the parts and i'll make your plates! so hopefully soon enough i can offer the parts required for all packards to be disc equipped!

PackardV8:
the anchoring point needs to be more centered with the rotor instead of off to one side.

DO WHAT????

I Have never owned a vehicle that the caliper was mounted that way. and most all of the late model stuff the caliper bolts to a bracket that bolts to the spindle. it is no longer part of the spindle.

so i personally have no problem with this set up. also something else to consider. in this sue happy world that we now live in, who in there right mind would make brake conversion kits in this manner if there was that great a risk of failure?

I've never owner a car where the caliper was centered over the middle of the disc. It's always off to one side or the other.

I would think the 1/4 or 3/8 plate would be pretty strong with grade 8 hardware. If you were worried you could always double up the plate where the caliper bolted to the plate.

Every aftermarket conversion that I had seen for 50's and earlier cars that maintained the original spindle have used a similar style plate bracket. Only difference is the actual shape of the bracket to match the application. Frankly I think the 1/4 steel plate would be stronger than what the actual caliper is made of.

The backing plate on drum brakes is usually around one 1/8 and attached with the same four bolts and never heard of anyone having problems with backing plate even after many years of use and abuse from weather and neglect. If a better grade of steel were used strength should not be a issue .

Craig,

Do you remember me? I now have the Senior disc brakes designed. I use the original hubs. The rotor is behind the hub. I did not want to machine the spindles or move the wheels out. The caliper mounting brackets are fabricated from 3/8 hot rolled steel. I also wanted to use the Senior wheel bolt configuration. The steering arm had to be slightly machined for clearance. I had to make a fixture for my rotary table in order to machine the arm properly.What did you do for the dust cover?
Now I am looking at the power booster. What do you know about the electric high power master? I intend to keep the original pedal and position. When I decide on a booster unit everything will be ready for installation.

Jerry

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Was wondering about the electric boost myself ever since seeing it installed on that pickup on Trucks TV although not sure about the mucho $$$. Doesn't it also require the 4:1 or therabouts pedal ratio? That seems to be just about the major problem of any retrofit booster & wouldn't that cylinder also have to be mounted higher to achieve it.

Has anyone looked into the feasibility of a frame mounted power setup similar to the street rod offerings. Would it be possible to keep the suspended pedal for first glance looks but have it operating something similar to a standard setup under the floor in maybe a 3:1 or so with a reduced travel range. Don't know if enough room there either with the bars and all but was thinking of the possibility-either components forward as in standard config or pointing backwards like the street rod kits show.

if you are refering to the electric/hydrolic units from abs power brakes, they work slick, i have used them recently on a mustang i built and another on a 37 teraplane. they are quite compact and i belive it would be easy to alter the linkage and make it work. the mustang is running a 3:1 pedal ratio and it is hooked to 13" 6 piston willwoods in the frond and 4 piston in the back. does the one you were looking in to look like this? this is a 10 inch frame mount unit but i used it on the firewall because of space constraints with the engine. the pollished canister on the passanger side is the resavoir which must be mounted above the master naturally, and the pump acumulator assembly we mounted behind the spash sheld between the fender and cowl. it is aproximatly the size of a larger rattle box. there should be a pic of it and more brake pics in the mustang build thread, i gotta head off right now but here's a link for the mustang build , pretty sure it's about 2 thirds in.

http://www.blackflag4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13759&page=11

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Quote:
<p>
Jerry, it looks like you've got the 56 (5x5) figured out! Thanks for the email since I previously somehow missed the last part of this thread.</p>

<p>
The booster is the issue, isn't it? See the Treadlevac??? thread for more info. I personally do not know of a solution that provides enough line pressure and retains the stock pedal position. OTOH, the re-levered pedal on my 55 Pat with disc brakes works super, but it would offend some.</p>
<p>
Craig
</p>

Update from me! i feel so special! lol
i am currently working on disk brake conversion kits for 51-56 packards. the first to be available will be 54-56 clippers, including the exec. 51-53's will be next. then 55-56 sr cars. i still need to get solid info on wheather 54 sr's are interchangeble with 55-56's like clippers are. or if they all by themselves. my kit will be available with all parts required, or just the brackets and a shopping list if you want to source the common parts yourself.

Hello.

The disc brakes are on the car.
Jerry

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