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anyone have a suggestion on how to reattach this small pc of trim to the main piece? originally it looks like it was spot welded.

not confident enough to try to do a MiG spot weld, very thin

pop rivets perhaps?

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  Trim LR quarter upper (5).JPG (560.89 KB)


  Trim LR quarter upper (6).JPG (829.83 KB)

If they were permanently joined together and the backs are open for enough access what about using a couple of small sheetmetal screws or maybe screws and nuts. One might do it but two would keep any tendency of the pieces wanting to twist under control.

both front fenders have been fitted. Made a template to drill the holes for the executive spear.
took a small break to refurbish the headlight buckets, junction blocks and wiring. Found some Ford bucket grommets that work. Part no. 51A-13077

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  Headlight buckets refurbished (2).JPG (1,130.03 KB)


  Front fender-right NOS mock up (2).JPG (1,260.53 KB)


  Junction blocks refurbished (1).JPG (1,297.81 KB)

just curious.....what do the dust seals look like in this location. I have a remnant of one(taped together). is the other side similar? and does it run the full length between screws?

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  Bumper rear-dust seals (2).jpg (1,133.17 KB)

Went down the rabbit hole recently. decided to remove some of the factory sound proofing material, and discovered rust in a few places, trunk & rear compartment. working on fixing that up. will have to work my way back up to the front me thinks.

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  Rust repair-trunk (1).JPG (1,461.23 KB)


  Rust repair-rear compartment (2).JPG (1,404.56 KB)

Rust can be a rabbit hole for sure. Other known places to check are the floors just inside the door jambs and the area at the bottom of the firewall where it flattens into the floor. Other somewhat hidden areas are above the headlights where mud and water gets thrown up by the tires and sits on top of the headlight box. Also in the bottom cowl areas at the rear of the tires where stuff is thrown and gets caught by some of the fender and splash panels and kept in contact with the cowl.

some more rust areas. in behind the taillights too.
on a positive side, my fabrication and welding is improving

HH56, yes rust is a bear. luckily I found the NOS front fenders. The rockers, front floor pans and A pillar have already been repaired. Do you know what the dust seals near the taillights should appear to be?

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  Rust repair-trunk (30).JPG (1,481.63 KB)


  Rust repair-trunk (9).JPG (1,238.93 KB)


  Rust repair-trunk (36).JPG (1,472.30 KB)


  Rust repair-trunk (37).JPG (1,435.67 KB)


  Rust repair-trunk (38).JPG (1,378.67 KB)


  Rust repair-trunk (40).JPG (1,330.41 KB)

Rust repair in trunk under tail lights is now completed, both sides

Moving onto the rusty wheel wells, played around with friends shrinker/stretcher to form pcs. not sure yet if this is how I will proceed.

Question.... how much space is truly between the skirt and the body? I left the welting on when I shaped the pc. and left about a 1/8" clearance. Is this too much?

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  Rust repair-trunk (44).JPG (1,297.37 KB)


  Rust repair-trunk (47).JPG (1,426.13 KB)


  Rust repair-right rear quarter (13).JPG (1,308.83 KB)

Rebuilt engine is back, I know color may not be exactly correct
Attempted to paint valve covers, not happy with my first effort
NOS fenders welded to inners and primed/painted, into storage

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  Engine-rebuilt (7).JPG (3,927.07 KB)


  Valve covers-painted.JPG (3,145.05 KB)


  Front fender storage (3).JPG (3,727.90 KB)

Playing with my clock, trying to see why it doesn't work, lightly blew the dust off, applied some light oil to the gears, cleaned the points.....has some movement now.
But when power is applied the mechanism wont move to wind the clock....see photo
should this wire be soldered to the clip? I don't want to blow the clock up if I am wrong.

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  A0AE095B-ACF1-4441-981E-77876ECDD85F.jpeg (73.00 KB)