Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

OK

Firstly, the 1948-50 setup is the same as the earlier Clippers, so the information from Howard is applicable.

The pins on the regulator arms are held to the brackets on the bottom of the window glass by washers and spring clips. The window glass should be blocked in the up position with a suitable piece of wood. Removing the clips and washers will allow the arms to be pulled free from the window glass. As Howard mentioned, you will need to take care to prevent pinched fingers due to the spring in the regulator arms.
See the first 2 photos for typical details of the clips and washers.

Once the regulator arms are free from the window and the mounting screws removed you should be able to slide the other arm free from the groove that is attached to the inside of the door.
See the third photo for typical detail of this end of the regulator arm.

Hope this helps.

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Thanks for the great pictures BDeB. The problem is to reach and remove the spring clips with the window up. Sure hope I don't have to cut into the door to get to them.

I'd still try maybe a foot or so of stiff wire with hook to see if you can snag that rounded end. A piece of baling wire or thin coathanger wire with just a small bit on the end bent over. If you can get the hook in the end of the clip and pull, it will turn on the shaft. When it points down try and pull the clip off.

Partial Success ! The hard part is done - We were able to reach the clips and hook them with a wire as you suggested Howard, and pulled them off . The top regulator arms are loose. Now to remove the screws holding the regulator. As you warned, they are very tight. Soaking them with WD 40 and need to find a larger Phillips driver. Don't know if I can break them loose. Thanks

That is good news. I could be wrong but think there may still be a clearance issue. If so don't think you are quite ready to remove the screws.

I believe you said the glass is about 1/2"down. If so, can you can pull the studs toward the inside of car so they are out of the channels and then lift the glass above them. If you can, secure glass high so it will be safe and out of the way and then the regulator can be removed.

If there is not enough height to lift the glass and clear the studs, then I'm not sure the regulator will have enough space to be removed with the arms in the up position. It may come with some manipulation but it may even require total removal of the glass. In that event, first follow the instructions starting at bottom of page 6 of SM body section to prepare the glass side guides to remove the glass and then pull the studs out of the channels so the glass will slide by them and go all the way to the bottom. Once it is down there, you can turn it the 90 degrees and go ahead with the removal process.

When the glass is clear of any space around the regulator and access holes then you can fight the screws and remove the regulator.

The studs are out of the channels and the two arms are hanging down . The window may be stuck in the side channels. Next, I need to get the regulator screws out and remove the regulator. There seems to be plenty of room - will see .

Editorial comment - why do people want to use WD-40 for a use other than intended? It is not a rust-buster. It is designed to keep something from rusting. Once it has rusted, WD-40 is just a little better than water.
Buy some PB-Blaster or Kroil and save a lot of work. Please!

I'm happy to report that the regulator is out of the car. Had to use a impact driver to remove the screws. Now I see the problem. One of the lift arms is completely broken in to right where it connects to the winding mechanism . So, I will need another regulator - doubt if it should be welded. Making progress !

That is really interesting. I've seen the studs where the clips are located either broken off or loose but don't recall ever seeing a completely broken arm. Wonder what could have caused that.

Glad to hear that you got the regulator out OK