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Off and on over the last month the engine is now safe in its home. Wiring the engine bay was done while the engine waited for install. I added an in line fuel filter to the line 1/2 way from the tank to the fuel pump.

Saturday, I actually drove the car for the 1st time (around the block). No over heating and good oil pressure. The engine has a stumble upon acceleration, I reset the timing and the carb using a vacuum gauge.

Today I drove the car after tuning again, still stumbles. Wracking my brain for the cause, and while I was putting the car into the garage i ran out of gas...go figure. I dumped some gas into the tank and what do you think? It started right up. Tomorrow I will change out the inline filter and drive to the gas station and fill it up. The filter doesn't look clogged but I need to have one on hand just in case the tank is full of gunk, I don't think so as I have about 4 hours on the car idling and timing.

More to come, including pictures.
To do list:
Get the dash lights to work.
Pull the trim and get ready for paint.
Clean the trunk and treat the surface rust.
Interior
Carpet
Still lots to do.

It is recommended to place the fuel filter somewhere between the pump outlet and the carb inlet. I've seen many cars with the filter mounted right at the carburetor inlet. This is because it is easier to pump fuel through a partially-clogged fuel filter than it is to suck fuel through it.

OK, today I ditched the factory fuel filter for a Fram G3 and now the car barely stumbles...in fact I'm going to call it fixed until I can swap the Delco distributor for the original Autolite. I changed out the vacuum advance on the Delco with the closest one I could find and now I suspect that the advance curve on the Delco is off. More to come.
By the way it ran great and smooth.
Now I will be replacing the overdrive cable which is broken with an aftermarket push pull aircraft cable of the proper length, through and threads. I guess I'll have to put a manual switch on the dash to sub for the one built into the dash end of the original cable...
I'v been fixing little things like the courtesy lights in front that needed rewiring and the right turn signal that needs a better ground.

What part of the original OD bracket or cable is broken? The cable should be able to be replaced if the bracket, knob shaft and switch is present. The inner core of the new cable is staked or flattened using a couple of punches thru a hole in the shaft and if the pot metal end of the bracket is still present and usable the outer housing can be refastened to the bracket with a 5/16 two piece shaft collar.

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Checkout my cable replacement.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=16886&forum=2
I didn't go into to much detail, but you can use a small punch to knock out the braded end of the cable at the end of the pull shaft. And use two small punches to braded it back so it won't pull out.
Plus you might find some more information about replacing just the cable by searching this forum.
Wes

Thanks for the info. It looks like my cable was attached with some sort of JB Weld or Epoxy to the end of the dash bracket. I need to find a way to firmly attach the outer winding to the bracket. Ideas?
I guess I will pull the cable from the dash and see what is left of the clamp end. I like the split clamp idea, if there is anything left of the housing I can add a clamp and be good to go!

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Hopefully once you get the JB Weld cleaned off it will look like Howards. Maybe a heat gun will soften it enough to remove. I'm not sure what to use to lube it with, I used oil and the oil started dripping onto the floor.
Wes

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I think the best way to free or lube a problem cable is to remove the cable and bracket and lube the entire length of the cable out of the car. There is not much inside the bracket itself and most of the problem is lower down where the steel wire and outer housing rusts and starts to bind. The rod inside the sleeve at the clevis end is another problem area.

When I do them I coil the cable with about the minimum radius I can get away with without coiling it so tight it takes a bend. That causes the coils of the housing to open a bit on the outer side where you can spray in penetrating oil and reach the wire. Curving it the other way will open the other side so you can repeat. After a good dose of penetrating oil is applied hang it vertically with the clevis end up and then squirt more inside the sleeve so it can run down the length of the cable. It might take a time or three over a couple of days but I have done that on several cables and it seems to work well in freeing them up.

After the penetrating fluid treatment you can wipe that off and use ordinary oil at the clevis end to let that drip down the length as a final oiling. Wipe off the excess and it should be good to go.

Great advice! My housing end is missing a chunk (a small chunk) and I think that I can use the split clamp method if I can find one. I measured mine at 7/16" O.D. so now it is off to the hardware store to find one. While I have the cable out of the car I'll lube it like you suggest.
Mark

It should take a 5/16 two piece shaft collar on the regular part shown with the split on one of my photos. That part tapers up to just about 3/8 right at the base of the bracket. It needs to be just a bit tight so it can exert enough force to squeeze the end to the cable. I have bought the collars from McMaster-Carr for around $4 depending on what material chosen. I usually go cheap steel as it is going to be painted.