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I'm thinking, if you move slide the rod up top (to carb rod) to the left, in each setup, the throttle valve "pin" is rotated the same way, although the arm has to be up on one setup, and down on the other. does that make sense? Looking to verify with anyone else who has one or has knowledge of the 2 piece setup.

I might not be following your diagram correctly, but I'm not seeing how the '50 setup moves the arm in the same direction. As long as you verify it on the car, it must be so...otherwise...

The pivot arm has another arm inside the trans that moves the lever. By rotating the arm 180 degrees, it reverses its pull because the arm going to the throttle valve stays in the same position. Ross explained it to me in my restoration blog starting on page 4.

Quote "Hey guy, I just spotted one of your problems: The throttle lever on the side of the tranny, the one that goes up to the throttle linkage is on upside down!! It should point up and not down. See fig 79, p 24 in the shop manual. With that on upside down, the throttle pressures will always be wrong: there is no chance of kickdown, and the trans will actually decrease it holding power when you give the car more gas. Bad Bad."

Below is a pic of the arm with the arm in the wrong position and the throttle valve in the car. Hope this helps. I'm sure Ross will chime in later with more assistance.

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I understand what you're saying, but if i have an extra bellcrank in the equation, it reverses the way the rod connected to the arm pulls laterally. The only way to get that into the same turning motion on the pin in the back is to flip the arm over. What i don't know is if the rod is supposed to turn the same way in the 50 as a 51 and later (i'm pretty sure it would.)

If you hit the gas on your car in your setup, the arm would swing forward and turn the pin counter-clockwise.

If you hit the gas on my setup with the arm up as installed on a 51, the bellhousing pivot point would reverse which way the bent arm motion is travelling, and my pin would turn clockwise, moving the valve inside in an opposite direction.

I believe (but i'd like to confirm) that the second bellcrank reversing the motion is cancelled out by the arm being in the other position.

Now, it could be that the 50 tranny is different inside and that slide needs to move in a different direction. I'm doubting they made that kind of change unless there was good reason. Also, if my arm was up, i'm pretty sure the second link rod would need to run smack through the tranny side mounts.

Looked again and there really is NO WAY that arm is going up, the shaft connected to it would not be able to hit the bellcrank, the tranny mount and the frame piece that support it would be directly in the way. They must have more clearance there in the 51's with the new body style. I have to assume that it was right before, and that's how it was installed originally and seems to be the only way it will go.



In other news, because i have an early tranny, we found one more thing that's different than the manual (pics attached.):


When the tranny was done being rebuilt, he said he couldn't set the piston depth for each position/gear to check it with the arm (circled) because the manual gave him a distance that just couldn't be achieved. He said the directions showed an adjustable arm, which we're assuming is the newer version after 50, and that the fixed arm can't pull it out the amount that the book shows. (I think i'm relaying the info correctly.)

He said we could put it together and drive it, but if it's off we'd have to drain out all the fluid and try to adjust it a few times by trial and error.

Does anyone have any experience or info on the early trannies on what to measure here and how much it should be in what position?


Hell or high water, i'll get this thing figured out.

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Once again, 51's packard blog has been a great resource with photos and ross advice:


"Yes, the 5/16 is important!!! If not set correctly, the fluid will not go where it is supposed to as you select each gear. This is one of those fundamental adjustments that make or break a trans job. Luckily, I just took a photo of this very operation a couple of weeks ago. Disconnect the shifter rod. Put the baby in reverse (shifter lever pushed toward the rear of the trans), loosen the bolt shown, and then move the shifter lever back and forth to achieve the 5/16 dimension. Lock the bolt down tight. Done."

The specs his motor manual were looking for were in a vastly different range (2.18" i believe?!)...maybe the info was for a gear start or twin ultra? I'll verify this info with him and see what we find.

This may be the final link to buttoning this baby up!

Edit: Just talked to him, he said that sounded like a lot more reasonable adjustment and a lot more correct.

I'm glad my blog has been helpful to you. I may not give good advice, but I'm very good at documenting other people's good advice!

And hopefully the further discussion on these topics will land more people here when they seek info...i notice google indexes this site pretty well and a lot of searches for ultramatic info leads here!

I must have done a decent job with the Google friendly programing, as Goggle 'spiders' the website a couple of times a day. You can make a post and find it on Goolge in a couple of hours. Amazing.

It really is...i'll post a question here, then go search google and be like "Man, he's having the EXACT same problem! Maybe he found a solution!" and follow the link, then i see that it's me :-/

Adjusted to 5/16, locked it down, pan up and 4 quarts of fluid in, fired it up for about 2 seconds, will check tomorrow and add more fluid, for now i have to tidy up other issues. Hopefully an in-the garage park, reverse, forward for 20 feet test sometime in the next few days!