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thanks Wes, that is a much better idea! it is pretty close because i can rotate it back and forth by hand fairly easily, but it needs to be smoother for sure.

was thinking about the old carb, it has a venturi of 1-7/32 and the 366s should have a 1-1/8. so this old carb of mine is def not a 366s.

anyways....to last night's work.


DAF sent over a 478s, on loan, so i can get through this concours and the bankhead highway drive. THANKS MUCHO BUDDY!

it has the 1-1/8 venturi and i can tell you my car likes this carb WAY better then the old one. probably a more correct CFM with the smaller venturi for this size motor. and probably better atomization. idk, just speculating. i made some adjustments to the carb before bolting it on and danged if the car didn't just fire right up without pulling the T switch on the dash. it fast idled and then smoothed out perfectly. it ran so nice.

I even had the RPM down to 450 just to see how low i could get it. it was like the car wasn't even running, it was nuts. no way in a million years my old carb would get down that low on idle.

i set the idle at 550-575 at the end though. in the video you can see it idling at 525-530 and yes that is lifter tick...no matter what i do i can't get rid of it. i think its a lifter bore that is worn.

i also figured out that knocking noise from the transmission area. its the exhuast hitting a rivet on the frame randomly. i'll have to correct that, but at least its not the transmission.

the 478s was rebuilt by the same place that did mine and it had some of the same issues my old carb had...like the antiperculator valves not being set right.

i ran the car and let it get good and hot, then let it sit for about 10-15 min with the hood shut. opened it up and looked down the carb, sure enough it was dripping down onto the throttle plates. this essentially floods the motor when you try to restart hot. and this was true as it did not want to start hot.

so i stuck a couple of spacers on the antiperculator valves to push them down a bit. ran the car again and got it good and hot. repeated the steps list above...and sure enough the carb was bone dry inside. car started on a dime! so i will be adjusting those valves.

i found a website that listed some technical info on the WDO and he was stating when setting the antiperculator valves that any time he used the factory proceedure it would leak out...so he always set them lower and never had a problem. this is what i will do from now on.

i took the car for a drive. very nice acceleration and highway driving. it still vapor locks....so that wasn't the old carb....but the electric fuel pump stops that in its tracks for me.

and right when i get one problem solved another comes up. the inductive pick up on my timing light bit the dust right when i was about to check the timing again. hook up the power cables for the light and it will work....put the inductive clip on any plug wire and the display freaks out and the lamp will go berserk. looks like its a new cable in the future, for now i'll see if my father in law has a light i can borrow.

final thought....while these carbs are pretty simple and trouble free for the most part, i think if i had the option i would put fuel injection on it.

if someone made a 2 barrel TBI setup for a good price, i'd convert over. course an adaptor plate would have to be made to convert it to the bore pattern on the intake manifold. with enough money i'm sure anything is possible...and i mean lots of money...so carb it is! lol!

heck i think you could even have a custom intake manifold fabbed up and run a 4 barrel bore so you can run one of these cheap, low cfm, TBI setups they sell. again lots of money.

anyways....till the next drama unfolds!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/BIYEbd4q1sg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

and the next drama has unfolded.....

I already know what is wrong, but i'll give those that follow at chance to figure it out on their own.

hint: that is coolant you see on the top of the head.

update on concours will be soon.

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Cracked head?

ding ding ding! we have a winner!

So begs the question why. Did it overheat in spite of the expensive coolant and new radiator or was there some other kind of stress introduced.

or was it just from age. or maybe from me smacking on it to try to get the damn thing off to rebuild the motor. and if i had a time machine i swear i would take anyone on this forum back to that time and let you experience exactly how welded that thing was to the block! if not only to experience the misery i went through trying to get it off. and i'm sorry but no wooden wedges or putty knife was going to cut it. it was warped and the studs were all messed up, so who knows. too many overheats in its life.

or maybe i simply torqued it down wrong cause i'm an idiot. idk.......

all i know is that its been on there for God only knows how long. then my Grandfather took it off in the 90s. then it was left on to weld itself to the block for 23 years and overheat and warp. then i'm nice to the car and get the head redone and it decides to crack. go figure....

the car runs 180 with the temp sender sitting on the top of the head and not in the 'water'. mid 80s outside. so i'd say its not from overheating. that is highway, driving around town and it creaps up to 190-200. but i think there is margin of error cause the temp sender isn't in the coolant all the way and elevated above the head. course I turn the car off and it heat soaks the head and then cools. so idk.

idk... i just thought everyone would enjoy the next drama.

i have a spare head.....has a helicoiled spark plug hole and i'm just not going there. temp sender bulb was broke off in it as well. so query has been put into the parts counter.

currently i'm working on the parts counter manager's car, so the head wont be fixed soon. maybe in a couple of weeks.

concours update to follow soon i promise.

I guess it's time to learn Pinning or Lock-N-Stich. See Video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0wfU4ZaKk
Wes

If it wasn't for bad luck you wouldn't have any luck at all it seems. Sorry to hear about your troubles.

When the car was built in 1937 it ran fine with an original (not aluminum) radiator and water or alcohol antifreeze. If everything is in order it should ruin the same today.

If cars do not run at the correct temperature there is an all too common remedy of throwing money at it instead of step by step analysis of the cause. It's never too late to do that.

it's not overheating Fred......

I 100% do not believe it cracked from any heat issues. I 100% believe it was my fault trying to get the thing off when I rebuilt the motor.

please feel free to beat me down over that as well....