Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Put the new parts in to the master, some oil and pumped it few times. Oil flows nicely out all ports. No drips other that the one operating the push rod. I don't like the way the boot fits the rod. It doesn't seal at all so I'm going to machine the shoulder a bit and put a groove in it like the one on the master so when the boot is installed it will seal at the master end and around the rod. The old one was full of crap. I will post before and after pictures with an explanation

Called a brake rebuilder here locally and he crossed the Wagner FE1108 casting number and told me that the master cylinder number is F1131. He also stated that this was one that did not crossover in to the forklift industry as quite a few did.

After trying to rebuild mine and the brake cylinders, and looking for something that would cross, I finally sent them all to White Post, resleeved and rebuilt as good as new with a life time warranty. Since these were the originals they bolted back on and no changes needed to be made.
Wes

After trying to rebuild mine and the brake cylinders, and looking for something that would cross, I finally sent them all to White Post, resleeved and rebuilt as good as new with a life time warranty. Since these were the originals they bolted back on and no changes needed to be made.
Wes

Quote:

The FE1108 casting is listed for 3 master cylinders in the 1951 Wagner catalog, all Packard applications.
Roughly
FE1130 1939-40
FE1131 1941-42 and 1942-47 Super 8
FE1134 1942-47 Junior and 1948-50 all except LWB

OK, so if this guy identified some of this through the casting number, I should try the FE1134 part number on him and see what he comes up with. As I stated above, I have rebuilt my master, and seems to be good on the bench. I haven't got it installed yet because I am still a working stiff. I just wanted to see if I can get one, how available it might be, and cost. I would consider buying one just to put it on the shelf for a back up unit if it's not an outrageous price.

Just remember this is not the place to cut corners, only one foot stops that car. While working on the cylinders replace the hoses and check the lines for corrosion, if one line breaks, you lose all four brakes. Just my 2 cents.
Wes

One thing you want to remember when using new Master and wheel cylinders; the parts come from the maufacturer coated in a cosmoline-like substance. I like to disassemble everything, clean the metal parts with lacquer thinner and the rubber parts with denatured alcohol. Then coat all of the moving parts with the fluid you are going to run the system on--if you are running DOT 3, use DOT 3, if Silicone, use silicone.
It is vital to inspect the hard and soft lines for integrity, be on the lookout for rust on the hard lines. Anymore I just replace all of them, in stainless steel when I can, and always get new flex lines. The extra money in parts and time in labor is miniscule compared to running an unsafe car. Each of us are ambassadors for our hobby, and need to be running the safest cars possible on today's roads.

Thanks for the tips. I am well aware of the pitfalls of a single master cylinder brake system. This is an issue that has come up since I started driving it. I don't think that the gentleman I got the car from drove it very much, so as I start to use the car things are cropping up. When I rebuilt the master, after honing it, it got a good washing out, then a good rinse with brake fluid, and all the seal were wiped down with brake fluid before assembly. Brakes are never something you want to scrimp on.