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Keith, the PS crank pulley was purchased from the swapmeet recently, so it did not come with my engine. My car is not equipted with PS, so that is why I am going to use the PS crank pulley and PS compressor bracket for the modern A/C setup.

I have not seen another Packard with the A/C setup this way, but that may be because those cars already had PS. So there was no mounting room on the drivers side of the motor.

When u install the AC be absolutly sure to install a SIGHT GLASS!!! Some AC "professionals" will try to discourage it. THere is no reason NOT to install one.

Mite be a good idea to start an AC installation analysis thread to critique various applications, experiences etc. At this point i would lean toward GM pump ca. 1973. There mite be good reasons not to use it in some applications. But the streight 8 should have plenty of room for it and should be pletiful and relatively cheap.

Keith, I think Kevin's going to use one of the smaller and more modern Sanden compressors.

Hey BigKev,
I use the purple nitrile gloves from Walmart. You can find them in the pharmacy. They're great! I get multiple uses out of them. I keep a pair in my car for when I go to the gas station too. I wouldn't work on my cars without them!

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That's the plan. The smaller compressor footprint will also help it to disappear in the engine bay under the alternator.

Once I get further along, then I can work out the condenser and hose arrangement. I am either going to run a retro aftermarket underdash unit, or an aftermarket trunk mounted unit. I havent decided which yet. The truckmounted unit lets me go with a much bigger evaporator, but then I am freezing the back-seat folks. While the underdash unit is much smaller, and allows me to target the air vents. Which may be better for the front seat folks. Maybe run one in back, and one in front! Now that would be neat.

This is just for the A/C, I will retain the Packard heater setup, and all the controls for it.

The dual unit idea would be fairly easy as a lot of sport utility vehicles have front and rear units. My 99 Tahoe is a example which should be rather easy to find in junk / u-pull auto yard. Just a idea guess I spend to much time looking around the U-pull.

Ok a couple of questions and perhaps a stupid one.

Is the crank bolt supposed to have a lock washer? Only thing mine had was a very thick washer.

How does one torque the crank bolt down to spec without the crank turning? I used my impact gun. But that probably only torqued down to about 50-60lbs based on prior experience with it. So I want to finish it with the torque wrench. But obviously the crank just turns as I try to wrench it. I am sure the answer is obvious.

Here are the pics:

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There is only the flat washer. Parts manual says locks only used up till 50.

I may have done things the crude way, but had an old fan belt which I put in groove and then wrapped one more time around on the top of damper. It was just long enough to vise grip to something that was close but don't remember what it was--maybe frame rail or stabilizer bar. It still spun at first but got another clamp and squeezed belt tighter and that did it. Maybe one of those modern strap clamps Sears advertised would work also.

THe fan belt method works for Q&D operations. If u think u will need to R&R the bolt several times then take a pully or other suitable piece of steel and cut a hole in the center big enuf for the socket to pass thru and then two mores on each side to slide over the bolt heads and weld a handle on it.

3hree other methods:

If your pully puller has a hole big enuf for a 1/2 inch extension to pass thru the n remove the puller bolt, stick the extension thru it, snap on the socket and bolt it the assembly to the pulley as if to remove the pully. Wedge a tire iron or something into the puller as a handle.

Get an accomplace to hold the flywheel with a GOOD spanner wrench is another way. DON"T wedge a screw driver in the flywheel teeth. They mite break.

Place the torque wrench onto the bolt as if to tighten it. Usea tire iron or other suitable such tool and stick the end of the tyre iron under the head of one of the side bolts and the handle of the tyre iron against the socket of the torque wrench at rite angles. Hold the tyre iron and pull the torque wrench.

This may seem crude also But I have fed a piece of clothesline rope down a spark plug hole with enough sticking out to retrieve it. Crank the engine clockwise until the piston pushs the rope tight against the cylinder head and won't turn any more and then torque the bolt. Turn the engine the opposite direction and the rope will come free without backing off the nut. I suppose a long bolt the correct thread size as a spark plug would also work but I have used the rope method several times to remove the crank pulley to change timing belts on my Volvos.