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Re: 1936 120 Synchromesh Question
#11
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bkazmer
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the only time the first gear non-synchro is an issue for me is: get used to driving modern all-synchro, get sloppy, get in old iron, make that nasty sound at first corner, chastise self, correct driving.

Posted on: 2010/6/30 9:44
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Re: 1936 120 Synchromesh Question
#12
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Bill_OBrien
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Well the issue is hills with Stop signs. Slowing, coming to the Stop sign and wanting to be in first to edge up toward the stop. Or.... same situation with a few cars headed to the stop sign.... really don't want to come to a complete stop to be in first.

I assume double clutching is quite similar to toe & heal down shifting?? I have had a bit of practice at toe & heal but it never occured to me to try that to get into first on a roll......

I do agree with Ownen.. a huge part of tha allure of the old cars is how they drive and getting used to their quirks... that's why my 120 doesn't have a Chevy 350 with a modern suspension and trans ;)

Thanks for the input fellas!

Posted on: 2010/6/30 19:29
-

( o\|||/o )

1936 Packard 120 4 Door Touring

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Re: 1936 120 Synchromesh Question
#13
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Jim
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Hi Bill,

To answer your assumption "I assume double clutching is quite similar to toe & heal down shifting?? I have had a bit of practice at toe & heal but it never occurred to me to try that to get into first on a roll......" Well, no.

Allow me to repeat the process: "This can be accomplished by pushing in the clutch, pulling the shifter in neutral, releasing the clutch, bringing up the rpm's (to match gear rotational speeds), and quickly depressing the clutch while pulling into low."

Typically the clutch must be completely engaged to get the engine to bring the transmission rpm's up to adequate speed and then just as quickly disengaged to get into gear without grinding into low. It is a quick process and requires feel.

You will get it. Just a bit of practice. I really admire your point of view on keeping the car the way it was delivered. If the one in your avatar, it looks lovely.

Jim

Posted on: 2010/6/30 22:27
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Re: 1936 120 Synchromesh Question
#14
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Ken_P
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Just my two cents worth, but modern semis don't have synchros either, because they don't hold up to the torque. Double clutching works well, or you can learn to shift like a truck driver- for downshifting into first, as rpms drop off, you'll be able to take the transmission out of second without the clutch (just put gentle pressure on the stick so you can feel the gears, and at a certain RPM you'll feel the tension drop off and it will come out smoothly). Then slowly increase rpms and gently push into first- when you get the engine and transmission rotating at the same RPM you'll feel the resistance drop and be able to slide the transmission into gear with no problems. I've shifted a 1929 Model A this way many times with no issues. I also used to deliver firewood on a 1965 Dodge 2 ton truck with badly worn synchros, and it was actually easier to shift this way than with clutch (single or double-clutching it).

Let me know how it goes!

Posted on: 2010/8/23 5:58
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?start=0&topic_id=6550&order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: 1936 120 Synchromesh Question
#15
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JWL
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Bill, if I understand your concern it is needing to start from a stop on a hill.

A technique I use for this is after coming to a stop; with my foot on the brake, place the gearshift in neutral and apply the parking brake, and release the clutch; when it is time to go get the car going, without rolling backwards, place the gearshift in 1st, and coordinating the engagement of the clutch, release of the parking brake, and movement of the accelerator pedal start moving.

I use this technique with modern manual shift transmission cars too. A little practice and you will become a master of this technique. This is a much better way, to start from a stop on a hill, than slipping the clutch from keeping the car from rolling backwards.

What I like about the older Packards is the need to do little or no sifting. First gear is good for only getting the car rolling. After that a shift into second, and then into high gear around 20 mph and you are on your way. No need to down shift going around corners either. Love that low speed, high torque engine and low differential gear ratio.

(o{I}o)

Posted on: 2010/8/23 10:27
We move toward
And make happen
What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer)
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Re: 1936 120 Synchromesh Question
#16
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Rusty O\'Toole
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They didn't need synchro on first because you never had to downshift to first once you got rolling. Your car should negotiate any hill in second unless you come to a stop, then you can shift into low.

Cars in those days were built to be easy to drive in traffic with plenty of pulling power and low gearing. This is fine in the city but means the engine has to rev high on the open road. In other words, your car should be in its element and not need to shift down to low gear. Have you tried to see how slow you can go in second? You might be surprised, it will go a lot slower than any modern car and pull away without stalling or bucking provided it is in good shape.

Your engine could be down on power without you knowing it. Those old flatheads are very well mannered and can be in an advanced state of wear without making a fuss about it.

I would start by doing a compression test and a tuneup. That is another thing, the tuneup is a forgotten ritual but can make quite a difference in power on an old car.

Now about double clutching. If you insist on downshifting to first, you will have to synchronize the engine speed and transmission speed yourself. You do this by shifting from second to neutral, revving the engine to the same speed it will be going in first, then shifting into first. There is a knack to it but it is not hard once you get the hang of it.

Posted on: 2010/8/23 10:42
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Re: 1936 120 Synchromesh Question
#17
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Mr. DeMille
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I've noticed with my '36 120b sometimes the transmission gears will still be rotating after stopping. The gears will grind slightly putting it in first. Seems the engine spins the transmission with the clutch disengaged. Is this a normal situation?

Posted on: 2010/8/23 14:33
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Re: 1936 120 Synchromesh Question
#18
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Owen_Dyneto
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It's normal if the clutch pedal free play is incorrectly adjusted. It means that when the pedal is down against the floorboards, it still hasn't gone far enough to completely disengage the clutch. You probably have too much free play at the top end of the travel, readjust it to about 3/4 inch or so.

Posted on: 2010/8/23 15:01
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Re: 1936 120 Synchromesh Question
#19
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Ken_P
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Often, if your clutch is worn (worn out springs in the pressure plate, particularly), or if the clutch linkage is adjusted properly (such that the clutch isn't disengaging), the transmission will spin slightly when the engine is at idle. How long has it been since you've adjusted the clutch linkage?

Posted on: 2010/8/23 15:03
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?start=0&topic_id=6550&order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: 1936 120 Synchromesh Question
#20
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Ken_P
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Owen_D, you took the words right out of my mouth. I was typing out my answer when you posted yours!

Posted on: 2010/8/23 15:06
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?start=0&topic_id=6550&order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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