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As a time/application reference i saw such aftermarket kits used in Buick dealerships and engines manufactured as late as 1975. Maybe NOT dealer approved nor company approved true. But go explain that to the heavy engine mechanics in the dealerships performing WARRANTY work on a FLAT RATE COMMISION pay basis or even the service mngr.

Hi Folks:

The Packard manual says the job can be accomplished without removing the transmission.

What they neglect to mention is that the car needs to be on a lift and the transmission unbolted and supported by a trans jack, while the motor is held in place by either an overhead gantry or a special motor support that uses the frame to hold the engine block.

Now when you loosen the main bearing caps with the rear of the crankshaft supported by the trans jack and the front supported by the timing chain, the geometry should allow just enough pivot to drop the rear of the crankshaft enough to install a new seal.

Now given this rather hairy proceedure, my inclination is to first make up a special dowel block to further compress the existing seal and then cram a bunch of new material along with GM Timing Cover Seal Maker into the void.

I hate all of these systems that rely on dyanmic seals under pressure. Modern cars have the same darn problems and the cost of fixing them astronomical even after the dealer gets done chiseling the mechanic out of his pay.

Hope this helps.

The slim jim tool would be the easiest, no trans disturbance needed. However, TIm Cole brings up a good point about the loosening of the trans bolts. MAYBE try this:

Leave trans inplace, do not disturb trans bolts but remove TORQUE CONVERTER bolts only. Pry the TC back toward rear of car. Not sure if there is enuf slide back room for the TC on the trans input shaft or not. Most TC's usualy can be slid back into the trans at least 1/16 inch if not 1/8" or a little more. Just need to release pilot of TC from end of crank. Not sure it will work but mite be worth a try for those with heart set on dropping crank.

51-54 Service manuel page 10 and 11 says to remove transmission.I am lucky to have my own 2 post lift so it might not be that hard. I can borrow a trans jack so I might just pull it out . Is their a front seal in trans or other seals to replace if I take it out?

The only caveat in pulling the trans is to secure the torque converter via rope or bungee cord so that it cannot slide forward and perhaps come off. If your trans isn't leaking, I wouldn't disturb the seal. Just take your time and good luck.

Hi Folks:

Even with the Ultramatic the trans should be able to stay in the car.

I always use guide pins to prevent damaging flex plates on Automatics and the clutch Marcel on manuals.

If you make up pins from long bolts then you can slide the whole unit back far enough to lower the crankshaft. Of course on the manual the mounts and OD solenoid need to be removed.

This job is such a problem, and given the Packard crankshaft has a slinger I'm still inclined to use dowels to re-seat the existing upper seal and add more material.

Also, if the upper portion is leaking due to main bearing wear, then some careful application of shim stock may correct the situation.

Given a motor with this condition is already worn I don't see the benefit in risking crankshaft damage for the sake of overkill. One thing about Packard Eights, cars I have driven that have never had the crankshaft tampered with always seem to run smoother than the best rebuilts. That long crankshaft is very delicate.