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I don't have a good answer or a 48 latch to play with. The 47 mechanism may not be the same but if they are similar, the only variable seems to be the square hole piece inside the latch. The shaft isn't keyed and the inner piece has a fair range of movement. Wonder if there is a chance the latch piece might be 90 degrees from where it should be when you inserted the lock shaft. Any way to compare positions with the lock that works without messing that one up?

Well, after spending most of my day messing with the locks, I have come to the conclusion that my locks are done. It is unfortunate that I spent the money on the locksmith to get the cylinders working, but fortunate that it was less than $50.00. Someone before me messed them up. I don't believe the shafts are the ones that belong in the lock. Besides the damage inside, they brazed the ends square where they are suppose to be a tang/ rectangular. The fact of making them square was the issue as to why I could not lock the door with the knob, and that when I locked it with the key, it would unlock when I turned it back vertical to remove the key. The mating part in the door is round with two nibs 180 degrees apart. With the square end, the shaft wedged between the nibs. Insert the shaft with the tang, and it allows the door portion to turn without interfering with the lock shaft, and in turn, allow you to lock/ unlock the door and turn the key back to the vertical position without moving the part in the door so the key can be removed. This is because when you turn the key the tang turns, catches the nibs and turns the door mechanism, and that allows you to turn the key back to the vertical position to remove it. Now turn the key the other way, the tang catches the nibs in the other direction and turns the door mechanism back, and again allows you to move the key back to vertical to remove it. I hope I have explained this well enough that if someone else has an issue with their locks that this may be of some help.

That's irritating. Since they fit in the door, the cylinders and housing may still be usable. Any chance you could undo the shaft damage or duplicate the appropriate shape out of brass rod. Something that could be attached to a shortened shaft. Might even be cheaper and quicker to find used assy's and just have the rekeyed cylinders transferred to the new housings. At least you wouldn't be out too much more.

There are NOS units on eBay all the time from a large lock shop here in Detroit. A lot cheaper and easier than what you are putting your self through.

Unfortunatley the damage is beyond just the shafts. The one lock that doesn't work,the cylinder comes out easy as part of the retaining ring is broken. The part of the cylinder that engages the piece that turns the shaft is badly worn, and that was the lock from the passenger side. I can imagine what the other one is like. I've tried several ways to try and get it to work with no luck. So, to avoid any more frustration, I have purchased two NOS locks.

Packards1 your post preceeded my last one. I have probably bought the ones you're refering to. As I said above, I am avoiding any more frustration.

The lock shop uses new uncut cylinders and makes keys for them. Give them a call, they may be able to cut the door cylinders to match your ignition switch key. That would get you back to how the car was when it was built. Its worth a call.

When I get the new locks, I am first going to make sure that they will work in the doors. If they work, then will talk to the locksmith to see if he can re-pin them to match the ignition.

Found out today that my locks are shipping on Tuesday. Yea!